Re: IML: colling system pressure?

[therichardsonfamily@xxxxxxxxxxx]

OK, thanks for everyone's input on the water jacket pressure question.

I think Dave's experience with head gasket failure with water pressure at 30-40 psi will make me pull the thermostat and run the water through with the system "open".  Following a good flushing, I will probably throw in an old radiator and do the "Cascade" cleaning.

I do like the filter idea.  Ken, will you share your info with the list regarding a source?

Thanks again everyone for your help.  I'll be back with more questions.

Dan Richardson
300L Family Heirloom


 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx
> Dan, if you leave the T-stat in the the water flow would be so low, it will do 
> no good. That could also raise pressures to an un-safe level. To get the most 
> volume of water flow, the T-stat needs to be removed, don't worry about engine 
> temp, just flow the water.Dave.
> 
> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> From: therichardsonfamily@xxxxxxxxxxx 
> 
> > Dave, et al: 
> > 
> > I kind of wanted to leave the thermostat in - to allow the engine to reach 
> > operating temps and maybe loosen some of that junk up. Then just let it come 
> > out the upper hose, and all over my feet. I don't want to blow any gaskets 
> > though. 
> > 
> > So... any thoughts on 30+ psi through the cooling system in the block? Or 
> > should I just be safe? 
> > 
> > Dan Richardson 
> > 300L Family Heirloom 
> >

--- Begin Message ---

• From: sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx
• Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2007 23:09:04 +0000

Dan, if you leave the T-stat in the the water flow would be so low, it will do no good. That could also raise pressures to an un-safe level. To get the most volume of water flow, the T-stat needs to be removed, don't worry about engine temp, just flow the water.Dave.

 

-------------- Original message --------------
From: therichardsonfamily@xxxxxxxxxxx

> Dave, et al:
>
> I kind of wanted to leave the thermostat in - to allow the engine to reach
> operating temps and maybe loosen some of that junk up. Then just let it come
> out the upper hose, and all over my feet. I don't want to blow any gaskets
> though.
>
> So... any thoughts on 30+ psi through the cooling system in the block? Or
> should I just be safe?
>
> Dan Richardson
> 300L Family Heirloom
>
>
> -------------- Original message ----------------------
> From: sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx
> > Dan, you can certainly flush the cooling system, by using the garden hose on
> the
> > lower circ pump inlet hose. Just remove the thermostat, re-install the housing
> > and hose, put a pvc pipe in the upper hose, so you can direct the water
> away.You
> > can do this with or without the engine running. As long as you don't restrict
> > the water flow, the pressure in the cooling system will be below normal
> > operation pressures.I would still do the Cascade flush after that.I've done
> this
> > same procedure, on some of my old engines, and the only draw-back is wet feet.
> > Ya'll have a nice day, Dave.
> >
> > -------------- Original message --------------
> > From: therichardsonfamily@xxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> > > Here's a question for Dave, but others may have some insight as well.
> > >
> > > My '67, 440 cid (Imperial engine) has newly replaced freeze plugs, and a lot
> > of
> > > casting sand and junk in the cooling system. Prior to doing a closed system
> > > flushing wit h "Cascade", I want to get most of the garbage out using a
> garden
> > > hose on the lower radiator hose, thereby avoiding the redone radiator.
> > >
> > > We all know 15-18 psi is what a radiator cap opens at. However, my garden
> hose
> > > may be as high as 25 to 30+ psi. Can the head gaskets, etc. and inside of
> the
> > > engine take that kind of pressure? Does anyone know what pressure exists
> > inside
> > > the block? Or would I be wiser (with this old , tired engine) to just throw
> an
> > > old radiator on and do a closed system flush? Any other drawbacks to my open
> > > system flush?
> > >
> > > Thanks for any input.
> > >
> > > Dan Richardson
> > > 300L Family Heirloom
>

--- Begin Message ---

• From: therichardsonfamily@xxxxxxxxxxx
• Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2007 22:40:00 +0000

--- Begin Message ---

• From: sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx
• Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2007 21:58:16 +0000

Dan, you can certainly flush the cooling system, by using the garden hose on the lower circ pump inlet hose. Just remove the thermostat, re-install the housing and hose, put a pvc pipe in the upper hose, so you can direct the water away.You can do this with or without the engine running. As long as you don't restrict the water flow, the pressure in the cooling system will be below normal operation pressures.I would still do the Cascade flush after that.I've done this same procedure, on some of my old engines, and the only draw-back is wet feet. Ya'll have a nice day, Dave.

 

-------------- Original message --------------
From: therichardsonfamily@xxxxxxxxxxx

> Here's a question for Dave, but others may have some insight as well.
>
> My '67, 440 cid (Imperial engine) has newly replaced freeze plugs, and a lot of
> casting sand and junk in the cooling system. Prior to doing a closed system
> flushing with "Cascade", I want to get most of the garbage out using a garden
> hose on the lower radiator hose, thereby avoiding the redone radiator.
>
> We all know 15-18 psi is what a radiator cap opens at. However, my garden hose
> may be as high as 25 to 30+ psi. Can the head gaskets, etc. and inside of the
> engine take that kind of pressure? Does anyone know what pressure exists inside
> the block? Or would I be wiser (with this old , tired engine) to just throw an
> old radiator on and do a closed system flush? Any other drawbacks to my open
> system flush?
>
> Thanks for any input.
>
> Dan Richardson
> 300L Family Heirloom
>
>
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