Re: IML: 2 issues to deal with on 66 Imp
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Re: IML: 2 issues to deal with on 66 Imp



If the carb has a chock pull off, check that it opens when the car is running. I had a 66 that smoked & sputtered particularly when cold. I just happened to touch the pull off & it opened. The engine smoothed immediately.
John
----- Original Message ----- From: "David Whitney" <david.whitney@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 7:32 PM
Subject: Re: IML: 2 issues to deal with on 66 Imp



Regarding the door, you may have to pop the door panel off and manually
move the bar while you or (preferably) a buddy hold the button in to get it
to disengage. Once that's done, lubricate and test. Door panel removal
and especially reinstallation is a delicate operation that should not be
rushed. Those press-in clips like to press back out through your beautiful
upholstery.


The sputtering may be related to timing.  I would start with points and
condenser, inspect/clean/replace distributor cap and plug/coil wires.
Triple check firing order and plug wire routing, then set timing.  I
normally do this as part and parcel of carb setup.

The part about engine racing does concern me, though. Another possible
cause of backfire is liquid (that would likely be unatomized gasoline) in
the combustion chamber. I bring this up because you mentioned the fuel
pump and carb being recently done work. If your carb was not properly
rebuilt/assembled, it could be sending more gas to the bores than can be
atomized by mixing with air. A mixture that fluctuates between over rich
and over lean could cause the symptoms you describe. Not good, because the
compression is way too high with liquid gas in the chamber and the
temperature is much too high with a lean mixture. A good way to blow a
head gasket or burn up a manifold.


Another possibility, much more benign, is the old manifold vacuum leak.
That could cause sputtering (that would be not enough vacuum to pull the
proper amount of gasoline at idle) and racing (an abundance of vacuum
pulling gas through the primary bores as well as through the idle circuit).
Are primary and secondary throttle bores fully closed at idle? Carb screws
and carb-to-manifold bolts firmly attached? Secondary vacuum plate too
loose? Secondary lockout dog properly adjusted? By the way,
overtightening those bolts is a good recipe for a manifold crack and
consequent vacuum leak.


A third possibility, also benign, is that the metering rod springs are
tired, not properly installed or are not right for your engine/carb setup.
The rods change from step to step as a response to vacuum.  You could be
jumping back and forth between steps.

Happy motoring,

David



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