Joe:
If I were you, I would invest the $20 and get the book that I listed in
this email to Charles and Rob. It shows the process in detail, as well as
how to make new arm rests. Some peoples arm rests are junk and need to be
repaired. The book is awesome, and well worth the money.
The fiber board that I mentioned is the same type of fiber board many of
you may have in your garages in the form of PEG board. This board is
identical in every manner, except that there are no holes for pegs. Does
this help? If not, I can track down some pictures for you. I haven't
done my car yet, but I can try to get my nephew to bring his truck by for some
shots. I thought that I had one of it before it went in the truck, but
can't find it right now. I will keep looking, I know it is here
somewhere.
Teresa Smith
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 6:58
AM
Subject: Re: IML: door panels
material
Chad/Teresa:
Do y'all have pics of what you've done with
your vehicles or the process you describe below? I am having a heckuva
time following, and or, picturing the materials you are talking
about.
:-)
Thanks,
Joe
61 Crown
In a message
dated 1/10/2005 11:58:42 PM Eastern Standard Time, "Chad & Teresa Smith"
<hemi_powered@xxxxxxx>
writes:
>Charles and Rob:
>
>I use a fiber board
material that you can find at the home improvement center. If you look in
books for custom upholstery or auto upholstery restoration, many of them
recommend replicating your door panels from this 1/8" hard pressed fiber
board. It works very well. I don't know of any other material that is
impervious to water and can be used for this, not to say that there isn't one
out there. I do know this much, if you decide to try this, do not buy the
fiber board with the melamine backing, the spray adhesive doesn't like the
melamine as well, probably because it is so slick. You can also add a 1/8"
layer of closed cell foam over the door panel, either all over, or you can
literally carve out patterns (with an X-Acto knife) and then place your fabric
over the door panel. If you have an embossed looking detail, you can achieve
this buy cutting that part of the design out of the foam, and then pushing the
fabric down inside of the design using an old screwdriver that you have
rounded the sharp corners off of. I did flames for my nephew's truck using
this method....looked very cool. You can also reverse the effect by adding the
design on top of your solid piece of foam, so you put a 1/8" thick layer of
foam (that is your design) on top of your 1/8" piece of foam that attached to
your board, so that you achieve an outward 3D effect. I would suggest that you
go to your library and get a copy of "Custom Auto Interiors" by Don Taylor and
Ron Mangus. Many esteem this as the Bible for custom auto do it yourselfers,
and I would say that I thought it was a good, easy to understand
book.
>
>Hope this helps.
>
>Teresa Smith
>1959
Imperial Custom South Hampton, and various other old, old Mopars
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: Rob McCall<mailto:Rob_Mopar@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx<mailto:mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2005 6:26 PM
> Subject: RE: IML: door panels
material
>
>
> Charles,
>
> Do you mean the
backing board the upholstery attaches to? If so, you can
> use plastic
board stock. I read about it in a street rod magazine. I can't
>
remember if it's styrene, ABS, or urethane. I think they use
ABS.
>
> I haven't done it yet, but I want it give it a try on one
of my other
> projects. I have a pair of door panels that the skins are
good, but the
> board is falling apart.
>
> Rob
McCall
> '67 LeBaron
>
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> What material can I use that will last longer and
maybe not be affected by
> water as the org material is? Or if I cant
find that where to get the org
> material?
>
Charles
>
>
_______________________________________________
>
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