carb swap.
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carb swap.



> I went and bought the 1405 Edelbrock carb. today.
> I have a couple of problems here.
> 1st The hole in the choke is to small to insert the
> rod.

Usually, the 1406 is the carb of choice for these
swaps; wiring up the electric choke is child's play,
and the electric choke is superior to the heat riser
deal.  I've never heard of anyone using the manul
choke version, perhaps someone else can help here.  I
would just say, drill the hole out.

> 2nd do I use the vacuum port on the right or the
> left side of the carb. for the vacuum advance fro
> the distributor.

Check the manual.  One is a timed advance, usually for
cars with emissions crap or cars with low idle vacuum.
 The other is a straight advance port, used for
non-emissions cars.  I use the straight advance,
except on my small block Mopar which seems to idle and
drive better using the timed port.  For your 68, use
the standard port.

> 3rd How do I hook up the kick down linkage the hole
> in the throttle is to big to use the rod that was in
> the holy I still have to get 1481 adapter for the
> throttle.

There is an adaptor kit for Mopars from Edelbrock, it
costs about $10 and is a necessity.  Its basically a
special bracket that lets you hook up the kickdown.

> 4th do I need the adaptor for the aircleaner.

Not if you have a 4 bbl air cleaner.  You _may_ need a
spacer, if the fuel line or something else on the carb
interferes with the bottom of the air cleaner.  a 1/2"
spacer should be sufficient, but only if necessary. 
On your 68 you shouldn't need it.

A spacer _under_ the carb is a good idea, get a
phenolic resin one with 4 holes.  This will keep the
carb cooler by separating it from the manifold, and
also increase low end torque a bit.  Just make sure
the hood can shut without hitting the air cleaner.


=====
--Mike Pittinaro

One point eight litres
Stromberg carburators sing
Loose nut at the wheel

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