60 Imperial Fuel Pump

["jsadowski" <jsadowski@xxxxxxx>]

Thanks Dick for the tips.I've checked for vacuum leaks, but can't seem to find any. I felt the same way that these carbs are pretty much bulletproof, so I some others thought the fuel pump most likely. What is happening is that the car will run with my foot on the gas pedal all day, but as soon as I let off, it immediately stalls. If it refuses to restart at that point, I can crank the engine till the battery & or starter wears out & don't smell any gas. I had a 61 Newport wagon many years ago that did that & it turned out to be the fuel pump.

       I've owned this car since 1990 & up until I let it sit for the past 5-6 months because its too hot in the summer out here in AZ. to really enjoy it, the car ran super. I'll try the above suggestions & let you know the progress.

Thanks, John

----- Original Message -----

From: Dick Benjamin

To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Sent: Thursday, November 27, 2003 9:37 PM

Subject: Re: IML: 60 Imperial Fuel Pump

I haven't been paying attention, and I don't want to get into an argument,
but from your description of the symptom, I doubt you have a problem with
the fuel pump.  You say the car won't stay running if you let your foot off
the gas.  I assume from this that it WILL stay running if you keep your foot
ON the gas, right?   Then there is fuel in the carburetor, so there is
certainly nothing more you could ask of the fuel pump.

Your problem is either in the accelerator linkage or in the carburetor
itself.  If the linkage is holding the throttle butterfly open when you step
on the gas, but not when you remove your foot, then perhaps the idle speed
screw is simply misadjusted.

If this is the symptom, but you feel the problem is not in the linkage, then
try adjusting the idle speed up (or have an accomplice with a rock steady
foot hold the accelerator down) until the car will keep running, then
s-l-o-w-l-y, very s--l--o--w--l--y, slide a flat piece of non-combustible
material (I suggest a cut apart beer can - of course you must drink the beer
first, or you can have a helper do this) over the primary (front) choke air
horn opening while the car is idling. If neither of you are thirsty, you can
also perform this check by operating the choke butterfly manually, but you
must be sure to have the throttle open far enough (or the fast idle pawl out
of the way) so that the choke is free to move through its whole range of
motion, from wide open to closed.

Note carefully whether at any point, as you slowly occlude the air passage,
you note an increase in engine speed, while holding the accelerator steady.
If you do, you have proven that your problem is too lean a mixture.  This is
because either there is too much air or not enough fuel getting into the
intake manifold, and this in turn is about 90% certain to be a vacuum leak
The other 10% of cases are caused by a blocked or misadjusted fuel
passage/idle screw in the throttle body.

The cure is to either find and fix the vacuum leak, or clean and adjust the
idle mixture passages.  The poor man's way to do the latter is to back the
two idle mixture screws all the way out, then stick the snout of a spray can
carburetor cleaner aerosol bomb (Gunk is a good brand) into the now empty
idle mixture adjustment hole, and give it a healthy squirt (engine off).  Do
this on both screws, then blow compressed air into the holes to dislodge
whatever little piece of crud was stuck in there.  Now, reinstall the
mixture screws, turning them in until you just feel resistance, then back
each one out exactly 2 turns for an initial adjustment.

If this makes the engine idle much better, you're almost home - next you
need to fine tune the mixture screws for optimum idle.  Move each screw only
1/4 turn at a time until you determine which way makes the idle better
(smoother and higher speed).  Adjust both screws the same amount and
direction.  When you have it idling as fast as it will, correct the idle
speed with the idle stop screw and re-fiddle with the mixture screws to
re-optimize the idle.  You may have to repeat this process a few times, but
keep the two screws set the same number of turns out from the inner stop.
You should now be able to idle the engine down to 600 RPM or so with a
steady, smooth idle, if the engine is in good shape and the timing is set
right.

These AFB carburetors are about the most bulletproof carburetors ever made,
and are still available new, but usually a good cleaning out and proper
adjustment is just as good as a new one, and a whole lot cheaper!

Dick Benjamin
----- Original Message -----
From: "jsadowski" <jsadowski@xxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, November 27, 2003 4:44 PM
Subject: IML: 60 Imperial Fuel Pump


As some of you may recall, I've been having a problem with my 60 staying
running once I let my foot off the gas pedal.
     Some suggested the fuel pump & others suggested carb issues. I decided
to start with a new fuel pump & looked up the Carter number on the Parts
America/Checker website & went to my local store to order one. A couple days
later, they called me back & told me that they have been discontinued. I
then decided to try NAPA & they said the same thing. I have never had any
problems finding mechanical parts & was pretty surprised by this. I guess
I'll give Andy Bernbaum a call & see if he has any. I think I may have one
of the original style pumps in my car & will get that rebuilt for future use
if I can find someone that rebuilds them.
John



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