Also check the fuel pump rod. Turn it around, it could have developed wear
on one side. As far as the pump goes, thought it looks different, any big
block early mopar pump will work on it. Here is a carter number that Advance
Auto Parts sells for 99.88 that is a perfect replacement for your car:M4862.
They still have plenty of them. I bought one from them about 2 months ago
for my 59.
Ray
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dick Benjamin" <dickb@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, November 27, 2003 11:37 PM
Subject: Re: IML: 60 Imperial Fuel Pump
> I haven't been paying attention, and I don't want to get into an argument,
> but from your description of the symptom, I doubt you have a problem with
> the fuel pump. You say the car won't stay running if you let your foot
off
> the gas. I assume from this that it WILL stay running if you keep your
foot
> ON the gas, right? Then there is fuel in the carburetor, so there is
> certainly nothing more you could ask of the fuel pump.
>
> Your problem is either in the accelerator linkage or in the carburetor
> itself. If the linkage is holding the throttle butterfly open when you
step
> on the gas, but not when you remove your foot, then perhaps the idle speed
> screw is simply misadjusted.
>
> If this is the symptom, but you feel the problem is not in the linkage,
then
> try adjusting the idle speed up (or have an accomplice with a rock steady
> foot hold the accelerator down) until the car will keep running, then
> s-l-o-w-l-y, very s--l--o--w--l--y, slide a flat piece of non-combustible
> material (I suggest a cut apart beer can - of course you must drink the
beer
> first, or you can have a helper do this) over the primary (front) choke
air
> horn opening while the car is idling. If neither of you are thirsty, you
can
> also perform this check by operating the choke butterfly manually, but you
> must be sure to have the throttle open far enough (or the fast idle pawl
out
> of the way) so that the choke is free to move through its whole range of
> motion, from wide open to closed.
>
> Note carefully whether at any point, as you slowly occlude the air
passage,
> you note an increase in engine speed, while holding the accelerator
steady.
> If you do, you have proven that your problem is too lean a mixture. This
is
> because either there is too much air or not enough fuel getting into the
> intake manifold, and this in turn is about 90% certain to be a vacuum leak
> The other 10% of cases are caused by a blocked or misadjusted fuel
> passage/idle screw in the throttle body.
>
> The cure is to either find and fix the vacuum leak, or clean and adjust
the
> idle mixture passages. The poor man's way to do the latter is to back the
> two idle mixture screws all the way out, then stick the snout of a spray
can
> carburetor cleaner aerosol bomb (Gunk is a good brand) into the now empty
> idle mixture adjustment hole, and give it a healthy squirt (engine off).
Do
> this on both screws, then blow compressed air into the holes to dislodge
> whatever little piece of crud was stuck in there. Now, reinstall the
> mixture screws, turning them in until you just feel resistance, then back
> each one out exactly 2 turns for an initial adjustment.
>
> If this makes the engine idle much better, you're almost home - next you
> need to fine tune the mixture screws for optimum idle. Move each screw
only
> 1/4 turn at a time until you determine which way makes the idle better
> (smoother and higher speed). Adjust both screws the same amount and
> direction. When you have it idling as fast as it will, correct the idle
> speed with the idle stop screw and re-fiddle with the mixture screws to
> re-optimize the idle. You may have to repeat this process a few times,
but
> keep the two screws set the same number of turns out from the inner stop.
> You should now be able to idle the engine down to 600 RPM or so with a
> steady, smooth idle, if the engine is in good shape and the timing is set
> right.
>
> These AFB carburetors are about the most bulletproof carburetors ever
made,
> and are still available new, but usually a good cleaning out and proper
> adjustment is just as good as a new one, and a whole lot cheaper!
>
> Dick Benjamin
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "jsadowski" <jsadowski@xxxxxxx>
> To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Thursday, November 27, 2003 4:44 PM
> Subject: IML: 60 Imperial Fuel Pump
>
>
> As some of you may recall, I've been having a problem with my 60 staying
> running once I let my foot off the gas pedal.
> Some suggested the fuel pump & others suggested carb issues. I
decided
> to start with a new fuel pump & looked up the Carter number on the Parts
> America/Checker website & went to my local store to order one. A couple
days
> later, they called me back & told me that they have been discontinued. I
> then decided to try NAPA & they said the same thing. I have never had any
> problems finding mechanical parts & was pretty surprised by this. I guess
> I'll give Andy Bernbaum a call & see if he has any. I think I may have one
> of the original style pumps in my car & will get that rebuilt for future
use
> if I can find someone that rebuilds them.
> John
>
>
>
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