Because when the loose connection is overloaded by starter it arcs and
looses connectivity. You should always tighten the battery cables to ensure
full battery power to all accessories including the starter.
Russell Sullivan
1966 Crown Coupe 2 dr ht
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob P" <fristpenny@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2003 5:31 PM
Subject: Re: IML: Electrical Help on a '56
>
>
>
> >From: Philippe Courant <accf-club@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>wrote:
>
> >I remember a curious thing which happened to me several times on my '58
> >Bui*k. I had no battery security switch so when i parked the car for a
long
> >time i removed the + cable from the battery post. When i installed it
again
> >and wedged it (i didn't tighten the nut ..) the first time i tried to
crank
> >the car, "click" and nothing happened ! The gauges , warning light, dome
> >lights went off.. So i moved a little the battery post ( cleaned it if i
> >wasn't in a hurry..) because it seems that a suddent corosion (carbon of
> >sparks between post and cable ?) developped on the battery post and
> >insulated the post !
>
> Does anybody know the explanation for this? My car has the exact problem.
> The positive cable won't tighten and I haven't gotten around to replacing
> it, because it's the original and has different wires running off it.
When
> I attach it the interior lights, etc. come on, but sometimes when I go to
> start it- "click" and everything goes off. You may have to wiggle it a few
> times before it will crank. Why does it do this? I would have thought it
> would be attached or not. I don't understand why cranking it will kill all
> power.
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Concerned that messages may bounce because your Hotmail account has
exceeded
> its 2MB storage limit? Get Hotmail Extra Storage!
> http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es
>
>
>
Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network