If the idle isn't smooth in drive, you either have an engine problem or a
vacuum leak, if you have gone all the way through the idle speed and mixture
adjustments. If you aren't sure that you did this all right, start over
with the idle speed and mixture adjustments by GENTLY bottoming the idle
mixture screws, then backing them both out exactly 1 1/2 turns, then start from
there to adjust the idle mixture as per the previous note, repeated here:
>>You will probably have satisfactory operation right off, but you
can improve your idle smoothness a little by adjusting the two idle mixture
screws, 1/4 of a turn at a time, after the engine is thoroughly warmed up and
is idling at a normal curb idle speed. Back each screw out until you
just begin to notice the idle speed dropping off (you can hear the very
slight change in tone from the engine), then run it back in about 1/4 to 1/2
half turn, searching for the fastest smooth idle. Repeat with the other
side's screw, then double check each of them. Now you should have a
very smooth idle, and you may be able to adjust the idle speed screw now to
save yourself some gas and still have a good idle.<<
Since your secondaries are not opening up, you need to
make sure your secondary lockout hardware is functioning properly,
by watching the secondary side butterfly shaft. It should not open at
full throttle unless you hold the choke all the way open, but it should open
then at full throttle. If it doesn't, one or more of the mechanical
adjustments on the linkage isn't made right. Review your kit
instruction and recheck everything. You don't have to take the
carburetor off the car to do that.
Also, of course, make sure that when you mash "the pedal to the metal"
that the carburetor primary side is opening all the way - you could have
a mis-adjustment of the carburetor throttle linkage - this is not covered
in your instruction sheet, but is pretty obvious. Full throttle should
pull the carburetor all the way open. If this isn't right, you
are also possibly having a problem with your transmission kickdown, and if
this is the case, please study the diagram in the FSM which tells you how to
set both of these things.
If opening the throttle all the way pulled the choke butterfly toward the
closed position, something isn't put together right, as opening the throttle all
the way should open the choke partially, not close it. This is the
"unloader" provision. Look at the linkage instructions again, you
probably have the tang on the choke shaft on the driver's side pointing the
wrong way, and the rod down to the fast idle stop on the wrong side of the choke
shaft.
Dick Benjamin
----- Original Message -----
From: <Imperial59crown@xxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2002 7:17 PM
Subject: IML: Carburetor almost there
> I worked on the carburetor all day today, and almost got it
right. The car > was very hard to start this morning, since I had the
accelerator linkage > connected too far forward, so it was not getting
enough gas, after adjusting > it back, I got the car started, and once up
to running temp. adjusted the > mixture screws in front, and then fiddled
with the idle, which is now fine in > neutral, but a little rough in
drive. I took the car out, and it was a lot > faster than yesterday, but
noticed that when I floored it, it would bog. I > think this was due to
the linkage, since the arm on the carburetor when the > throttle was
fully open would hit the rod going to the choke, and cause it to > close.
I then replaced the gasket with one that was completely open in the >
middle, like the one I took off. When I took the car out again after making
> more adjustments to the linkage and idle, it was getting faster, and no
> longer bogged when I floored it, but the secondaries were not opening
up, so > when it was floored I would not get that whaaa sound with the
extra burst of > passing speed. Any suggestions here would be welcome.
One good thing is I am > no longer getting any hesitation at start
ups. > Bill '59 Crown >