----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 3:33 PM
Subject: Re: IML: 1960 Temperature Gauge
One tool the driveway work shop should not be without, is an infrared temp sensor. You can shoot the T-Stat housing, or return hose, or radiator top and get a quick assessment of coolant temp. Add a few degrees, and check to see if you're in range. A mechanical type also is helpful. The infrared is also good to check the steaks on the bar-be as well. Dave.
-------------- Original message --------------
From: PAUL WENTINK <randalpark@xxxxxxx>
> The gauges on these cars (1960 through 1963) were never very accurate.
> Adding to this problem, over the years voltage regulator failures have
> often overheated them. The regulators are notorious for burning out and
> pegging the gauges. Usually, they can be saved if the car is
> immediately shut down, but this can happen anyplace, and disconnecting
> the gauges on the fly isn't a simple job. Most of them are just run
> until they get too hot or burn out completely.
>
> The cooling systems on our cars is able to handle just about anything,
> as long as it is properly maintained and in good condition. I am okay
> watching functional gauges for readings that are out of the ordinary.
> The temperature and oil pre ssure gauges on most of my '60 through '63
> Imperials read low, possibly due to what was explained previously. I
> checked the actual temperature and oil pressure by having the cars
> tested at the shop under normal operating conditions.
>
> If I see the temperature gauge move high, or in the case of oil
> pressure, low I shut it down and check for a problem. This occurred on
> my '62 once after exiting a freeway. The temperature gauge suddenly
> began to climb. Pulling over and checking things, I found a broken
> belt. The car did not reach boiling, and I was able to change the belt
> and resume my trip without trouble or having damaged the engine.
>
> I think that the key here is to get to know your car, and then watch
> and listen for change. That is usually the first sign of trouble. J.C.
> Auto can rebuild and recalibrate the gauges on these cars if you want
> them to read properly. Their contact information is on the OIC we site.
> They do an excellent job.
>
> Paul W.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: sjak brak
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 2:17 am
> Subject: IML: 1960 temperature gauge, was: 1960 Imperial brake bleeding
>
>
>
> In my experience from the speedshop, the original Mopar gauges can
> often get very inaccurate over the years. This can have various causes.
>
> Â
>
> The only way to correctly check the temperature is to install a
> calibrated gauge and sending unit. This will not affect the originality
> of the car, since you can remove it after comparing the readings from
> the calibrated unit with the one on your dash.
>
>
> Â
>
> On 10/23/07, Rob van der Es wrote:
>
>
> Thanks for sharing this Richard!,
>
> Â
>
> Your father is absolutely right, you need to adjust the cam adjusters
> (4 in the front and 2 in the rear) frequently to get a good working
> braking system.
>
> I have adjusted the way you father described it, and I must say I have
> a firm pedal that travel only halfway to the floor!
>
> Â
>
> Maybe the other 60 owners, Paul, Tom, Kenyon and Charles can jump in on
> this and tell us how much pedal travel they have?
>
> Â
>
> And since we are talking about 1960 Imps here, what is the correct
> reading for the temperature of our cars?
>
> Since the weather is almost freezing cold here, my car doesn't reach
> normal operating temperature. It just passed the Cold mark on the dial
> and thats about it. Since it is a Californian car I thought the former
> owner might have installed another termostat that opens earlier, so I
> checked it and I was right!
>
> Â
>
> The previous owner installed a 160 degrees thermostat!, I guess to
> prevent the car from overheating in hot Californian summers.
>
> I now have installed a 180 degrees thermostat (OEM standard
> temperature) and the needle on the gauge goes higher then ever before!
> It now stays exactly in the middle of the dial.
>
> Is this correct?
>
> I have never seen the needle climbed that high before, so I am a little
> worried allthough common sense tells me that the middle of the dial
> sounds quite good...
>
> Â
>
> Just curious to know the readings on other 1960 owners temperature
> gauges!
>
> Â
>
> Thanks,
>
> Â
>
> Robert
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: richard burgess
>
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx ; Kenyon Wills ; Larry Blomburg
>
> Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 2:47 PM
>
> Subject: IML: 1960 Imperial brake bleeding
>
>
> Â
>
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> Â
>
> After spending countless hours working on the brakes on my '60 Crown
> they are finally working properly. I think we bled them entirely three
> times before getting everything repaired properly. The shop that
> "restored" my chasis did not double flare the brake lines correctly and
> had overtightened the flares at the bronze blocks creating distortion
> and leaks. We ended up replacing all of the lines again and the blocks
> as well, at the front frame and on top of the axle. The IML web site
> was helpful but did not really address the issue of pedal going to the
> floor. S ee below. Another tip, we elevated our brake bleeding bottle
> on a small step ladder, that really helped keeep the air from returning
> to the cylinders during the bleeding process. After all of this my
> father had this to say:
>
> Â
>
>
>
> For Imperial Club under "Repair" , "Brakes", "Brake Bleeding".
>
> Â
>
> The 1960 Imperial and like years brake systems can be perfectly bled
> and the pedal still go to the floor if the brake shoes are not adjusted
> to require minimal movement to brake the drum. The bottom line is
> that with six cylinders to provide fluid too, the master cylinder will
> be at the end of its stroke (to the floor) before the wheel cylinders
> have enough fluid (pressure) to push the shoes tight against the
> drums. Chrysler knew this, as in the Maintenance Manual under "Pedal
> goes to Floor" you (a) check fluid in master cylinder and (b) adjust
> for worn linings . The obvious implication is that it does not take
> much slack at the brake shoes to allow the pedal to go to the floor.Â
> With the shoes properly adjusted tight against the drum and just
> loosened enough to allow the wheel to turn freely you still will not
> have a firm pedal until you almost reach the floor. That's just the
> way it is. If you want to see this then tighten all the shoes against
> the drums and then see how much pedal you have. You cannot see this by
> pumping the pedal as the strong shoe return springs will push the fluid
> back out of the wheel cylinders faster than you can stroke the master
> cylinder. Adjust the shoes properly and frequently and you can get
> good braking.  Â
>
> Â
>
> Richard Burgess
>
> '60 Crown
>
>
>
> Â
>
> ________ __________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! -
> http://mail.aol.com
>
> ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com -----------------
> This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please
> reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be
> shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the
> Administrators should be sent to iml.webmonster@xxxxxxxxx
> To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm
>
