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Thanks for the info Dave :)
I will buy one, and after checking the temp of the
upper and lower radiator hose of my ImperiaI (necessary content) will
check the temp of my steaks (175 F on the surface sounds OK to me, I like them
red inside :)
Rob
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 5:10
PM
Subject: Re: IML: 1960 Temperature
Gauge
Rob, the infrared tools are less than $90, it also helps with checking
A/C return line temps.BTW, a rare steak is less than 175 degrees surface temp.
Dave.
--------------
Original message --------------
From: "Rob van der Es" <r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Hi Dave,
I know these gadgets, and I like
them!
But I always thought that these tools are way
too expensive for the shade tree mechanic?
But since you can also use them to check the
steaks on the BBQ it might be a wise investment LOL
Rob
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 3:33
PM
Subject: Re: IML: 1960 Temperature
Gauge
One tool the driveway work shop should not be without, is an infrared
temp sensor. You can shoot the T-Stat housing, or return hose, or radiator
top and get a quick assessment of coolant temp. Add a few degrees, and
check to see if you're in range. A mechanical type also is helpful. The
infrared is also good to check the steaks on the bar-be as well.
Dave.
--------------
Original message --------------
From: PAUL WENTINK
<randalpark@xxxxxxx>
> The gauges on these cars (1960
through 1963) were never very accurate.
> Adding to this problem,
over the years voltage regulator failures have
> often overheated
them. The regulators are notorious for burning out and
> pegging
the gauges. Usually, they can be saved if the car is
>
immediately shut down, but this can happen anyplace, and disconnecting
> the gauges on the fly isn't a simple job. Most of them are just
run
> until they get too hot or burn out completely.
>
> The cooling systems on our cars is able to handle just about
anything,
> as long as it is properly maintained and in good
condition. I am okay
> watching functional gauges for readings
that are out of the ordinary.
> The temperature and oil pre ssure
gauges on most of my '60 through '63
> Imperials read low,
possibly due to what was explained previously. I
> checked the
actual temperature and oil pressure by having the cars
> tested
at the shop under normal operating conditions.
>
> If I
see the temperature gauge move high, or in the case of oil
>
pressure, low I shut it down and check for a problem. This occurred on
> my '62 once after exiting a freeway. The temperature gauge
suddenly
> began to climb. Pulling over and checking things, I
found a broken
> belt. The car did not reach boiling, and I was
able to change the belt
> and resume my trip without trouble or
having damaged the engine.
>
> I think that the key here
is to get to know your car, and then watch
> and listen for
change. That is usually the first sign of trouble. J.C.
> Auto
can rebuild and recalibrate the gauges on these cars if you want
> them to rea d properly. Their contact information is on the OIC
we site.
> They do an excellent job.
>
> Paul W.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
sjak brak
> To:
mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 2:17 am
> Subject: IML: 1960 temperature gauge, was: 1960 Imperial brake
bleeding
>
>
>
> In my experience from the
speedshop, the original Mopar gauges can
> often get very
inaccurate over the years. This can have various causes.
>
> Â
>
> The only way to correctly check the
temperature is to install a
> calibrated gauge and sending unit.
This will not affect the originality
> of the car, since you can
remove it after comparing the readings from
> the calibrated unit
with the one on your dash.
>
>
> Â
>
> On 10/23/07, Rob van der Es wrote:
>
>
> Thanks for sharing this Richard!,
>
> Â
>
> Your father is absolutely right, you need
to adjust the cam adjusters
> (4 in the front and 2 in the rear)
frequently to get a good working
> braking system.
>
> I have adjusted the way you father described it, and I must say
I have
> a firm pedal that travel only halfway to the floor!
>
> Â
>
> Maybe the other 60 owners, Paul,
Tom, Kenyon and Charles can jump in on
> this and tell us how
much pedal travel they have?
>
> Â
>
> And
since we are talking about 1960 Imps here, what is the correct
>
reading for the temperature of our cars?
>
> Since the
weather is almost freezing cold here, my car doesn't reach
>
normal operating temperature. It just passed the Cold mark on the dial
> and thats about it. Since it is a Californian car I thought the
former
> owner might have installed another termostat that opens
earlier, so I
> checked it and I was right!
>
> Â
>
> The previous owner installed a 160 degrees
thermostat!, I guess to
> prevent the car from overheating in hot
Californian summers.
>
> I now have installed a 180
degrees thermostat (OEM standard
> temperature) and the needle on
the gauge goes higher then ever before!
> It now stays exactly in
the middle of the dial.
>
> Is this correct?
>
> I have never seen the needle climbed that high before, so I am
a little
> worried allthough common sense tells me that the
middle of the dial
> sounds quite good...
>
> Â
>
> Just curious to know the readings on other 1960 owners
temperature
> gauges!
>
> Â
>
>
Thanks,
>
> Â
>
> Robert
>
>
> ----- Original Messag e -----
>
> From: richard
burgess
>
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx ; Kenyon
Wills ; Larry Blomburg
>
> Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007
2:47 PM
>
> Subject: IML: 1960 Imperial brake bleeding
>
>
> Â
>
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> Â
>
> After spending countless hours
working on the brakes on my '60 Crown
> they are finally working
properly. I think we bled them entirely three
> times before
getting everything repaired properly. The shop that
> "restored"
my chasis did not double flare the brake lines correctly and
>
had overtightened the flares at the bronze blocks creating distortion
> and leaks. We ended up replacing all of the lines again and
the blocks
> as well, at the front frame and on top of the axle.Â
The IML web site
> was helpful but did not really address the
issue of pedal going to the
> floor. S ee below. Another tip,
we elevated our brake bleeding bottle
> on a small step ladder,
that really helped keeep the air from returning
> to the
cylinders during the bleeding process. After all of this my
>
father had this to say:
>
> Â
>
>
>
> For Imperial Club under "Repair" , "Brakes", "Brake Bleeding".
>
> Â
>
> The 1960 Imperial and like years
brake systems can be perfectly bled
> and the pedal still go to
the floor if the brake shoes are not adjusted
> to require
minimal movement to brake the drum. The bottom line is
> thatÂ
with six cylinders to provide fluid too, the master cylinder will
> be at the end of its stroke (to the floor) before the wheel
cylinders
> have enough fluid (pressure) to push the shoes tight
against the
> drums. Chrysler knew this, as in the Maintenance
Manual under "Pedal
> goes to Floor" you (a) check flui d in
master cylinder and (b) adjust
> for worn linings . The obvious
implication is that it does not take
> much slack at the brake
shoes to allow the pedal to go to the floor.Â
> With the shoes
properly adjusted tight against the drum and just
> loosened
enough to allow the wheel to turn freely you still will not
>
have a firm pedal until you almost reach the floor. That's just the
> way it is. If you want to see this then tighten all the shoes
against
> the drums and then see how much pedal you have. You
cannot see this by
> pumping the pedal as the strong shoe return
springs will push the fluid
> back out of the wheel cylinders
faster than you can stroke the master
> cylinder. Adjust the
shoes properly and frequently and you can get
> good braking. Â
Â
>
> Â
>
> Richard Burgess
>
> '60 Crown
>
>
>
> Â
>
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