Re: IML: 51 imperial rear hub removal....

It sounds like he's using the type of puller that clamps to the outer edge of the drum. Before I knew better, I tried using one of those on a 63 & it ended up separating the drum from the hub. The car had low miles & the brakes were what came on the car new. I destroyed a perfectly good drum.

A person in our club older & wiser then me also told us when removing the drums not to play around. You only end up damaging the axle. He told us to use a sledge hammer & give it a good solid hit.

John

----- Original Message -----

From: Hugh, 58 Imperial

To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Sent: Monday, July 02, 2007 10:34 PM

Subject: Re: IML: 51 imperial rear hub removal....

I'm not sure what a hub puller with pry bars is so let me just say you need a more substantial hub puller. The one I use has three legs that you attach to the lugs with the wheels own bolts. There is a central piece that attaches to the thick screw that rests against the center of the wheel, with strike surfaces at each end. A regular hammer will do nothing to loosen the hub. A small sledge hammer is needed at the very least. I have access to a heavy, square headed, small railroad spike hammer and it does the trick first time, every time. The required hub puller pulls the hub off by pressing at the center while simultaneously applying opposite pressure to the lugs.

Don't bother with the pot metal type available from the likes of J.C. Whitney, that costs around $30.00. It will literally shatter from all the forces being applied through it on a hub as substantial as an Imperial. You need something made of cast iron or steel at the very least. This is a toll worth investing in. Your need for it while you own the car will never go away.

The pistons are held on the back of the plate by two nuts. There are also smaller shoe adjustment nuts you will need to avoid. Oh, removing the springs on the cylinders is child's play compared with putting them back. I suggest taking a picture of the set up once you have the hub off but before you start dismantling anything. You'll be glad you did. The FSM is quite good in this area but if you lose track of what you actually find on your car you may have difficulty in finding your way back.

Oh, I should mention, bleeding the system once you put it all back together can be the worst part of the whole project.

Hugh

----- Original Message -----

From: Chris S

To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 12:03 AM

Subject: IML: 51 imperial rear hub removal....

Im once again in need of help! I pulled my fronthubs and replaced the brakes with little problems. Now that I have moved on the the rear I cant even get the hub off. I removed the castle nut and the flat washer behind it. Is there somethingelse I have to remove? The hub moves freely in a circle and is not frozen to the pad. I used a hub puller with pry bars and it didnt budge a bit. Any help would be great! Im so close to getting her on the road and now Im stuck. Also how do you remove the wheel cylineds "piston" from the housing to clean them all up?