Re: IML: 51 imperial rear hub removal....

[randalpark@xxxxxxx]

The correct puller is illustrated at the OIC web site. It is wise 
indeed to obtain the heaviest duty tool available, and plan to hit it 
hard. Be sure to use the axle nut as a safety. Using the wrong puller 
will not do the job and will damage the car.

Paul W.


-----Original Message-----
From: john sadowski <jsadowski@xxxxxxx>
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Mon, 2 Jul 2007 11:06 pm
Subject: Re: IML: 51 imperial rear hub removal....



It sounds like he's using the type of puller that clamps to the outer 
edge of the drum. Before I knew better, I tried using one of those on a 
63 & it ended up separating the drum from the hub. The car had low 
miles & the brakes were what came on the car new. I destroyed a 
perfectly good drum.

 

A person in our club older & wiser then me also told us when removing 
the drums not to play around. You only end up damaging the axle. He 
told us to use a sledge hammer & give it a good solid hit.

John


----- Original Message -----

From: Hugh, 58 Imperial

To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Sent: Monday, July 02, 2007 10:34 PM

Subject: Re: IML: 51 imperial rear hub removal....




I'm not sure what a hub puller with pry bars is so let me just say you 
need a more substantial hub puller.  The one I use has three legs that 
you attach to the lugs with the wheels own bolts.  There is a central 
piece that attaches to the thick screw that rests against the center of 
the wheel, with strike surfaces at each end.  A regular hammer will do 
nothing to loosen the hub.  A small sledge hammer is needed at the very 
least.  I have access to a heavy, square headed, small railroad spike 
hammer and it does the trick first time, every time. The required hub 
puller pulls the hub off by pressing at the center while simultaneously 
applying opposite pressure to the lugs.

 

Don't bother with the pot metal type available from the likes of J.C. 
Whitney, that costs around $30.00.  It will literally shatter from all 
the forces being applied through it on a hub as substantial as an 
Imperial.  You need something made of cast iron or steel at the very 
least.  This is a toll worth investing in.  Your need for it while you 
own the car will never go away.

 

The pistons are held on the back of the plate by two nuts.  There are 
also smaller shoe adjustment nuts you will need to avoid.  Oh, removing 
the springs on the cylinders is child's play compared with putting them 
back.  I suggest taking a picture of the set up once you have the hub 
off but before you start dismantling anything.  You'll be glad you did. 
The FSM is quite good in this area but if you lose track of what you 
actually find on your car you may have difficulty in finding your way 
back.

 

Oh, I should mention, bleeding the system once you put it all back 
together can be the worst part of the whole project.

 

Hugh

 


----- Original Message -----

From: Chris S

To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 12:03 AM

Subject: IML: 51 imperial rear hub removal....






Im once again in need of help! I pulled my fronthubs and replaced the 
brakes with little problems. Now that I have moved on the the rear I 
cant even get the hub off. I removed the castle nut and the flat washer 
behind it. Is there somethingelse I have to remove? The hub moves 
freely in a circle and is not frozen to the pad. I used a hub puller 
with pry bars and it didnt budge a bit. Any help would be great! Im so 
close to getting her on the road and now Im stuck. Also how do you 
remove the wheel cylineds "piston" from the housing to clean them all 
up?







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