RE: IML: RE:Need help from a 318 oil system guru!! Saint Dick perhaps???? Mike??

["Dick Benjamin" <dickb@xxxxxxxxx>]

I'm always happy to help, Jeff.  I know there are many others on the IML who
could also pitch in, and some of them have much more experience than I, I
just happened to be sitting here when your question popped up.

Yes, I knew it was the driver's side, but what I don't know is if the FSM
refers to the driver's side as the left side.  I think so, as that is the
standard of the trade; I was just being cautious.

I think you should devise an attachment to your reversible drill motor so
you can drive the oil pump.  Once you have done that (just look down the
hole where the distributor plugs in, you can see what shape it takes to
drive the pump shaft), you can check the cam bearings easily, but noting
whether or not oil is coming up the passageway what connects with the second
and fourth rocker support tower on the left and right side of the engine,
respectively.  The oil pump shaft turns CCW when viewed from the top, that
is why you need a reversible drill.  The oil pump is somewhat hard to turn,
so you need a healthy drill motor - at least a 3/8 chuck.

It is a good idea to rotate the engine while you are running the oil pump,
by the way, as it will prelube all the bearings and make the initial startup
much easier on things if the engine has sat without running more than a year
or so.  If it's been less time, I'll leave it up to you, but usually you
don't need to take this precaution for shorter storage intervals.  If you do
this, you'll have to re-time the distributor.

If you determine that there is no oil coming from one or the other of the
head supply oil passages in the block (with the heads off, you'll see oil
quickly when you run the pump), you'll know the cam bearing has spun in that
location (or else one of the gallery oil plugs is missing, but if that were
the case you'd have a humungous leak somewhere).  This is very bad news, as
the camshaft has to come out, which means that the best way to proceed is to
pull the engine and strip it completely, then take it to a machine shop and
have all the cam bearings replaced. This takes skill, experience and a
special tool, it isn't something the average DIY'r can tackle.   By the way,
make very sure all the oil passage blocking plugs are re-installed after
this operation.  Buy an FSM for this engine and read up on the discussion of
the oiling system, you'll see what I'm talking about if it isn't clear.

Dick Benjamin

-----Original Message-----
From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Jeff Ingraham
Sent: Saturday, July 30, 2005 3:23 AM


It is the drivers side that gets no oil while the pass
side was gettig good oil.
I only pulled the drivers head last night but after
finding the rust in the cylinder walls, I think I will
pull the pass side too and clean them up while I am in
the neighborhood.
I know nothing about camshaft bearings or rocker arm
passages.  How do I check the passages for alignment
and or replace  the bearing?  
and the bigger question, how do I check that the oil
situation is fixed before I get it all back together
again? 
I remember hearing of an electric screwdriver to prime
the oil pump.  Is that applicable here either to check
it or to lube things before I goback together?
 I am replacing the fuel pump and water pump and hoses
and belts and plugs and cap/rotor etc. while i am
here.  Anything else I should do while i have it this
torn down??
Sorry If I am asking dumb questions, I know just
enough to be dangerous when it comes to internals on
engines especially 318s.
Thank you!
Jeff




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