Re: IML: Paint/Wax 57 Imperial

[<kandkoyen@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I would also like to echo Tim's thanks to Christopher for the very
informative comments on the subject of polishing and waxing old finishes.
Also, is Zymol available in stores, or is it one of those products only
obtainable on-line? Thanks also to all the other mechan-ically-savvy folks
from whom I've learned more in two months than in all the years I've owned
Imperials. Now if I can just figure out how to gain access to all this
stuff...!?!
----- Original Message -----
From: <tcrowley2@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2005 6:27 AM
Subject: Re: IML: Paint/Wax 57 Imperial


> Christopher,
>
> Thanks so much for your feedback on the paint/wax issue.  Your comments
were very informative, particularly re: the properties of cleaner wax vs.
just polish.  I'm a little paranoid about doing it myself for the first
time, and I think I'll watch a pro just once, and go from there.  By they
way, you are the second person that has recommended Zymol.  I'm actually
looking forward to doing the waxing myself eventually, and  Zymol will
probably be my first choice.  As far as buffing with a machine?  Trust me.
I'll pass.  WAY over my head at this point.  As I hope you read in my note
to Kenyon, I have a long list of little things to take care of, but my car
is beautiful, and I just want to keep it that way and do things right.
Christopher, I'm flattered that you would take the time to write me such a
concise, comprehensive note about this.  I've never considered myself much
of a joiner, but being part of this club just makes me smile.
>
> Thanks, Christopher.
>
> Tim
> ---- Christopher H <imperial67@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> > Welcome to the group, Patrick & David's Dad (do you have a name too?)!
> > Sounds like you have an incredible car. :)
> >
> > Odds are that what you are seeing on your cloth is indeed paint,
especially
> > if it's the same color as the car (or close).
> >
> > A few things to consider:
> >
> > 1. Paint naturally oxidizes with exposure to the elements, so it's
normal to
> > remove the dead paint (though if all the paint has died, you'll have
removed
> > all the paint!). So this isn't a huge concern if the car's not been
waxed in
> > a while, but you have to test out a small area and see what the result
is.
> >
> > 2. There are many types of waxes. "Cleaner waxes" and "polishes" all
have
> > agents, both mechanical (abrasive) and chemical, that remove oxidized
paint,
> > presumably to leave a fresh, shiny top layer after they're done. Cleaner
> > waxes are not always the best at protecting this newly revealed top
layer,
> > however. A follow-up topcoat of a non-cleaning wax is a good idea.
> >
> > 3. Paint ages. Even if the car was repainted once, if it's no longer
glossy,
> > then the paint has oxidized and the question becomes how well will it
come
> > up. Sometimes a single application of a cleaner wax followed by regular
> > applications (depending on where you live, how the car is used and
stored,
> > etc.) of a non-cleaner wax will keep the paint going for years to come.
> > There is no reason a paint job cannot last 20-30 years with proper car,
> > whether it is the factory original or a well-done repaint.
> >
> > 4. Not all waxes are the same. I'm a fan of Meguiar's products, and find
> > that their stages of wax provide the best choices based on your needs.
You
> > can research them at meguairs.com. For very dark cars and modern paint
in
> > good condition, however, I'm partial to Zymol, however. (I have several
> > black cars and none looks as uniformly wonderful as after the first
washing
> > a week after it's been waxed with Zymol... Something about having that
week
> > to set and then being washed and dried that just makes for a gorgeous
> > finish.)
> >
> > 5. Pay attention to what you apply and remove the wax with. Soft 100%
cloths
> > are a must, as is keeping the car cool (in the shade or garage). I buy
> > diapers from a local diaper service in bulk every two years. Nothing
beats
> > 'em, IMHO. But soft, good-quality terrycloth towels are also good. I
also
> > don't recommend that anyone learn to use a buffing machine on a pristine
> > classic or a new car... It's too easy to buff the creases and edges down
to
> > primer without much effort. Practice and a gentle touch must be used,
and
> > therefore learned!
> >
> > Hope this helps... Enjoy that '57!
> >
> > --
> > Chris in LA
> > 67 Crown
> > 78 NYB Salon
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On 7/11/05 7:04 PM, tcrowley2@xxxxxxxxxxxx at tcrowley2@xxxxxxxxxxxx
wrote:
> >
> > > Ok folks, here goes.    I've been reading all your dialogue for a
month now
> > > and truly enjoy it.  I just purchased a 57 Crown Imperial.  My boys
(Patrick
> > > 15, David 14) and I (especially) love it!  It has 27,500 original
miles, and
> > > is in fine condition.  The 392 Hemy makes me smile as I can barely
hear it
> > > running after her two-day tune-up.  I'm a novice, but learning every
single
> > > day. Here goes my very first (of many questions):  When I rub the
paint (or
> > > wax) the rag is actually coming up with blue smudges on it.  It's as
if I'm
> > > rubbing off the paint!! What's that all about.  I haven't waxed it yet
or
> > > anything yet because I wanted to ask this question.  Is it paint?  Is
it
> > > unbuffed wax?  I'm not freaked about it, but is does seem alittle
wierd.  (The
> > > car is dark blue and has been painted MAYBE once since its original
paint job
> > > in 1957.  Please advise.  Thanks.
> >
> >
> >
> >
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>
>
>
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