From: dardal@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: IML: 413 block leak
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 20:49:31 -0600
Taking a digital picture will help. One way to seal this is the following.
Get
a powerful vacuum pump that can pull 3-4 psi of vacumm or more. Insert the
vacum pump in the raidator hose and plug the hose that admits coolant from
the
radiator (lower hose). The idea is the vacumm pump sucks the coolant
space.
Then, by applying the JBweld, the vacumm will suck the JBweld in the crack.
It
only needs a few seconds of vacumm. That may work. But we will have to
see the
crack.
D^2
Quoting Scott Scheuermann <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>:
> Kenyon,
>
> The block leak is located between 2 freeze plugs on the driver's side.
It
> looks as if a previous owner tried to replace one without removing the
> engine...its a bit bent. However both mechanics that have looked at it
say
> the freeze plug is not the problem. Perhaps it is time for a 3rd
opinion!
>
> If it is cracked it really is not noticable as the second mechanic
swears
> that it is not cracked and that the coolant is seeping thru pores in the
> block... The sealants that were tried were both internal to the cooling
> system. I seem to remember that one was called ceramic seal.
>
> The engine and cooling system appear to be working very well...except of
> course for the leak!
>
> Scott Scheuermann
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Kenyon Wills
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2005 6:53 PM
> Subject: Re: IML: 413 block leak
>
>
> Your block is leaking for one of two reasons- the metal has failed
> metallurgially or a seal that keeps the water in has failed.
>
> If the block is cracked, you're most likely looking at pulling and
> replaceing it UNLESS you're willing to do a little shade-tree monkey
business
> and gamble a little bit.
>
> If so, you need to find out where the leak is. It's probably a crack
> caused by overheating (??why did it crack?). There is a putty that comes
in
> two parts called JB weld. If you clean the area around the crack
extensively
> and degrease it, you may be able to repair it by slapping that stuff on
> there. It comes in two seperate tubes and is available over the counter
at
> most reputable car parts places.
>
> Wanna bet that it's somewhere that you can see but can't reach without
> pulling the engine? You never know - you might get lucky. Most
mechanics
> won't touch this sort of thing with a 10-foot pole. Cant make any
promises
> and don't want to be held liable...
>
>
>
> Second scenario: Seal is bad. The water pump, heads/head gaskets,
and
> freeze plugs all hold the water in. If one of them is compromised, your
> engine leaks. Water pump and heads are usually easy to diagnose and
repair.
> You explicitly stated that the block is leaking. Is it leaking from a
crack
> (see above) or is it coming from one of those small circles that are
pressed
> in? The circles are metal caps that go into holes cast into the block.
> Water freezing expands and can crack the block, so these are a failsafe
> device and under extreme cold conditions will allow the expanding
freezing
> water to force them out, yeilding a repair bill but not a replacement
bill.
>
> These can be slapped back in after removeal and re-sealed. Generally
you
> have to take the engine out, but sometimes you get lucky and can do it
with
> the engine in.
>
> First challenge for you is to decipher where the water loss is coming
from
> (have you seen the crack?) and then to address it.
>
> I see an engine removal in your future. Hopefully you won't get to
build
> up a new one.
>
>
> The 440 is normally an almost direct replacement. It is almost the
same
> thign and most holes are the same. Since I have not done a swap myself,
I
> can't say if all of the accessories will fit the same or need
adaptation. A
> 440 is not, however, the 413. Should you swap? Nobody will know but you
and
> people that know how (and care to) count the number of bolts on your
valve
> covers. I personally like the feel of a 413, but that's splitting hairs
-
> they are both effective engines, and dropping in a workable 440 might be
an
> efficient path out of your plight.
>
>
> Kenyon Wills
>
> Scott Scheuermann <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> A newby here, to the list and classic cars. I have a problem that I
have
> never heard of before and I'm looking for some input. The car is a 65
Crown 4
> door with a 413. It leaks coolant from the block. Coolant and oil are
not
> mixing. One mechanic looked at it briefly and said that the block was
> cracked. Another took a lot more time and said that it is actually
seeping
> through the block. He tried a couple of different sealants that were
> "guaranteed" to work...and of course did not! He believes that the
engine was
> previously rebuilt and it runs great. So where to go from here without
> breaking the bank? 413's are not to be found locally. I understand that
a 440
> may be a suitable engine, but not original. I hate to start changing
things
> on a car that appears to be original with the sole exception of the
paint. It
> is tempting to do nothing, but my hope for the car is to tow my '60
Airstream
> travel trailer (#5000) and I don't want the engine blowing on me! I am
not
> going for a show quality car here...a "20 footer" would be good enough
for me
> as long as the mechanicals can handle the extra rigors of towing.
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