EEEK! I talk to probably one person a month who has removed the park lock housing without removing the cable first - use extreme caution when removing this piece. There is a spring that attaches the cable adapter to the dog in the transmission that is virtually impossible to disconnect when removing the housing with the cable in place. The gaskets are only $4 but the springs are expensive and while they can be re-wound and re-installed, it's definitely the hard way to do the job. It's really tempting to just pull those 5 bolts out but if you plan to re-use the parts take your time.
Patience is the only way to get the cable loose without inflicting damage - soak the pinch bolt with your favorite penetrating oil for as long as it takes to get it to move back and forth in the housing. Too much or too forceful tapping will peen the end of the pinch bolt over so easy does it... a nice plastic, copper or lead mallet or piece of hardwood works well. Once the pinch bolt is sliding freely, then start gently twisting the cable ferrule in the housing.
Southern or gently used cars usually come apart easily but those of us who live in the snow belt have gotten used to allowing plenty of time for this.
The most prevalent failure mode for these cables is leakage. The lower ferrules are crimped over the vinyl coating on the cable housing to create the seal which keeps the transmission fluid in the cable. Engine heat and petroleum products work together over the years to harden the vinyl and the vinyl cracks right at the edge of the ferrule, resulting in a leak. We've experimented with many, many ideas over the years but the only durable solution we've found is to replace the cable. I know they're expensive and I wish we could sell them for less, but we do what we have to in order to keep the doors open.
The best solution we found for leaky cables (other than replacement) is to remove the cable and thoroughly clean it. Decades of oil immersion has penetrated the long lay wires in the housing so it takes quite a lot of cleaning to get oil to quit oozing out of the wires. Once everything is clean and dry you can use your favorite sealant or epoxy to seal the crack. Take care to get as much in the crack as possible, then smooth a light coat over the repair, extending 1/2"- 3/4" either side of the crack. Avoid the temptation to build layers, the stiffer the cable gets the easier it will crack. Clean everything again and apply glue-lined heat shrink tubing over the repair. Butt the heat shrink up against the shoulder on the adjusting ferrule, then shrink the tubing until glue runs from each end. Make sure your adjusters and their mating holes are clean and lightly lubricated so things go together with a minimum of force, and use new o-rings. It's not a permanent repair, but with gentle handling it might get you through a few seasons.
Again, the best way to make these cables last is to handle them gently. Use plenty of penetrating oil and do what you can to keep everything clean. If you have to twist to get something to move, grip the adjusting ferrule and do not pull on the vinyl housing... and only twist the ferrule enough to break it loose and work it a little. Use genuine Vise-Grips or high quality equivalents, save the Harbor Freight pliers for less delicate work. Repair engine and transmission fluid leaks - anything leaking from the radiator, engine, power steering pump, A/C or transmission follows gravity to the lowest point on the transmission before dripping... those usually being the transmission mount or the park lock cable. Degradation of both of these parts is accelerated when immersed in any of these fluids, so fix the leaks and keep everything clean!
Okay, I'm done whining, off to work!
SC
On Monday, May 5, 2014 10:01:22 AM UTC-4, 62to65mopar wrote:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/transtech.html has a few photos.
Also, some guys loosen the cable lock nut and pipe plug, then remove the park cable housing off the transmission with the cable still attached.
Definitely do not cut the cables under any circumstances if they are good.
Thanks,
Gary H.
> -------Original Message-------
> From: Jimmy
>
> there is a hairpin clip that retains the shift cable, and the park cable.
> You can stick a screwdriver in the shift cable hole where the adjuster
> is, to release the hairpin on the cable end. Last resort is to remove
> the drain pan to release. It's easily seen then. Same thing on the
> park cable.There is a socket head hex screw in the bottom of the park
> cable housing. Remove that screw/plug, and insert a screwdriver.
>
> On 5/4/14, Nico Over <nov...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> > Gents am trying to pull a locked up engine from my 65 Bel II vert (318
> > poly). I have all the bolts loose and ready to yank the assembly out except
> > I can't figure out how to unhook the 2 transmission cables. I don't want to
> > cut them yet. ...
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