Before this whole driveshaft thing gets out of hand I'd like to set the table straight before everyone digs in. Both Rich K. and I had 727 tailshaft failures this past year. My failure is thought to be just from age & fatigue. The crack in the tailshaft went 270 deg. and followed a casting line, who knows why it happened. My tranny shop, B.Bellafatto, a well known S/S & N/SS racer says that he's seen this before, that was good enough for me. While working on the car it was found that the B&T boot was ripped allowing road dirt to enter. Time to replace the boot and maybe the 50 year old B&T joint. At that time the only replacement unit I was able to find was a complete unit from Brewers Performance. The unit is $299.95 plus shipping. Well I figured that my tranny shop had to swap out the old for new unit with a press, might as well replace the rear U-joint at the same time, that should bring the repair to $400. Not what I wanted and still have a 50 year old driveshaft.
Searching the internet I found Driveshaft Specialist Inc. I saw that they made a conversion for early Mopar B&T units and gave them a call. Tech. answered all my questions and for what I thought was a fair price provided a complete bolt in unit.
I am no expert on driveshafts, a joint at both ends and they go round and round, that's it. (Tech support) did provide the following information. That the unit is rated for 600hp, that the slip yoke is at the rear (their experience) to reduce weight & vibration from the tailshaft. That was good enough for me, as well as my tranny shop saying it was one of the best they've seen.
Let me finish by saying that the Chrysler B&T unit has and will always work for our cars, all I needed to do was replace the ripped boot. I'm sure that every reputable driveshaft shop can make a unit that will work, cause that's what they do. I wish this Group would make a decal so I can put it on my new driveshaft. I'd put a mirror under my car at shows to show everyone which Group I belong to. If we all did the same thing to our cars we would be in a class called B/S...Boring Stock, or ST/MP...Same Thing Modified.
![Smile]( "Smile")
Nick Tiberio
FuryUs63
From: "Bill Parker" <hemirr@xxxxxxxxx>
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tuesday, January 7, 2014 1:00:07 PM
Subject: Re: Driveshaft Source - Conversion from ball and trunion
I've been wondering about these points myself after reading the reasoning for the rear slip yoke at that link. I don't think I've ever had or seen a torqueflite tailshaft housing crack in all these decades of messing with Mopars so that doesn't ring very credible. I'm sure it isn't impossible, maybe Roland will have some additional insight on this. The possible downside it seems to me of having the slip yoke in the rear, is that it is now way out there at the end of the shaft, so after the wear to the slip yoke and the dings and arrows to the tube of a few years of driving (as in typical 4 wheel drive shafts with a few years of service), would this placement exacerbate any wobble? I do see the attractiveness of using this to make it a bolt in replacement. If a regular slip yoke works on a tail shaft which originally had a B&T setup, one could simply come up with a complete used Mopar shaft of an appropriate length, unbolt the B&T flange, and use the late model shaft, skipping the expensive modified shaft; I don't think this is the case though I haven't ever tried it.
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