as far as the rear brakes go you should be able to get the adjuster all the way out if the adjuster can't move all the way out before spinning all the way back around it means the rear brake shoes are worn or the drums have been turned too far or the backing plate and/or the adjusters are damaged.
from my notes you cannot use the single master cylinder you must use the duel however for a power brake car it shouldn't matter if it's 1 inch or 1 1/8 inch bote. the smaller bore on a non power brake car allows the pedal to be easier to push, with power brakes it doesn't really make a difference.
from what I've read this thread it sounds like you have a solution it's just witch problems do you have. don't forget you have 1 rear line that is also made of rubber and it could be expanding like the front and causing an issue for you too.
Eric, Tacoma WA
1962 Newport
Thank you everyone. I have 3 teenage boys and a fiance moving in soon. So, I'm going like crazy with a house update right now too. I'll go through your advice, but it might be a little while before I reply again.I used a dual m/c from a '76 Dart. I used the m/c for boosted disc/drum brakes. I do notice the piston diameter is less than inch while the '76 Dart non-boosted is over an inch ( 1 1/8" ? ). Should I switch to the larger non boosted piston m/c even though the boosted originally came with the >1" piston?I worked on the rears some more tonight. Here's something interersting. The manual tells you to back both adjusters all teh way out when bleeding to remove air that might be trapped in the piston. Well, backed all the way out is not really all the way out, it actually starts to bring the piston back in again. This time I lifted the wheels and backed the adjusters off until the drums spun really freely, which was a turn just short of all the way out. Then I bleed again and adjusted. I did get a little pedal.I also made an adjustable m/c push rod and added some length. That may have helped a tiny bit or it was my imagination.I pulled the m/c off and adjusted the push rod end coming out of the master cylinder out a bit more.Ollie: I was using a single pot the first time. I thought Roger at AAJ said that'd work. Someone as Forwardlook said it'd work as well. Eitherway, I ditched it.From all the above I do have some pedal, doesn't work great though.So, please add any comments and let me know if a bigger bore piston would help.Calipers are correct.
On Friday, July 27, 2012 7:20:08 PM UTC-4, ollie patterson wrote:The problem appears to be in your master cylinder. Do I read you have a single pot? You need a dual master cylinder, at least 1 1/8” piston to make the system work. If you are using a stock MC it will not work, you are not moving enough fluid.OllieFrom: HerbSent: Friday, July 27, 2012 5:36 PMTo: 1962to1965moparsSubject: Re: Odd Disc Brake Situation--
I converted to a '76 Dart M/C for power disc/drums. I still have the same issue. No pedal unless I clamp off the two front caliper hoses.Strange thing is, without the clamp and no pressure on the pedal, there is a tiny bit of pressure on the discs so they don't spin completely free, like the pressue is there, but I get pedal all the way to the floor. Then it'll rise back up.--
There appears to be enough natural pedal travel. It looks like the correct style booster.
I bleed the heck out of the m/c and all the lines. I used a Mityvac as well. Calipers are installed correctly, I used the same kit on my non-boosted Newport,works fine.
Why would blocking the calipers off give me pedal?
--
Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.
--
Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.
On Friday, July 27, 2012 7:20:08 PM UTC-4, ollie patterson wrote:The problem appears to be in your master cylinder. Do I read you have a single pot? You need a dual master cylinder, at least 1 1/8” piston to make the system work. If you are using a stock MC it will not work, you are not moving enough fluid.OllieFrom: HerbSent: Friday, July 27, 2012 5:36 PMTo: 1962to1965moparsSubject: Re: Odd Disc Brake Situation--
I converted to a '76 Dart M/C for power disc/drums. I still have the same issue. No pedal unless I clamp off the two front caliper hoses.Strange thing is, without the clamp and no pressure on the pedal, there is a tiny bit of pressure on the discs so they don't spin completely free, like the pressue is there, but I get pedal all the way to the floor. Then it'll rise back up.--
There appears to be enough natural pedal travel. It looks like the correct style booster.
I bleed the heck out of the m/c and all the lines. I used a Mityvac as well. Calipers are installed correctly, I used the same kit on my non-boosted Newport,works fine.
Why would blocking the calipers off give me pedal?
--
Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.
--
Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.
On Friday, July 27, 2012 7:20:08 PM UTC-4, ollie patterson wrote:The problem appears to be in your master cylinder. Do I read you have a single pot? You need a dual master cylinder, at least 1 1/8” piston to make the system work. If you are using a stock MC it will not work, you are not moving enough fluid.OllieFrom: HerbSent: Friday, July 27, 2012 5:36 PMTo: 1962to1965moparsSubject: Re: Odd Disc Brake Situation--
I converted to a '76 Dart M/C for power disc/drums. I still have the same issue. No pedal unless I clamp off the two front caliper hoses.Strange thing is, without the clamp and no pressure on the pedal, there is a tiny bit of pressure on the discs so they don't spin completely free, like the pressue is there, but I get pedal all the way to the floor. Then it'll rise back up.--
There appears to be enough natural pedal travel. It looks like the correct style booster.
I bleed the heck out of the m/c and all the lines. I used a Mityvac as well. Calipers are installed correctly, I used the same kit on my non-boosted Newport,works fine.
Why would blocking the calipers off give me pedal?
--
Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.
--
Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.
On Friday, July 27, 2012 7:20:08 PM UTC-4, ollie patterson wrote:--The problem appears to be in your master cylinder. Do I read you have a single pot? You need a dual master cylinder, at least 1 1/8” piston to make the system work. If you are using a stock MC it will not work, you are not moving enough fluid.OllieFrom: HerbSent: Friday, July 27, 2012 5:36 PMTo: 1962to1965moparsSubject: Re: Odd Disc Brake Situation--
I converted to a '76 Dart M/C for power disc/drums. I still have the same issue. No pedal unless I clamp off the two front caliper hoses.Strange thing is, without the clamp and no pressure on the pedal, there is a tiny bit of pressure on the discs so they don't spin completely free, like the pressue is there, but I get pedal all the way to the floor. Then it'll rise back up.--
There appears to be enough natural pedal travel. It looks like the correct style booster.
I bleed the heck out of the m/c and all the lines. I used a Mityvac as well. Calipers are installed correctly, I used the same kit on my non-boosted Newport,works fine.
Why would blocking the calipers off give me pedal?
--
Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.
--
Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.
--
Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.
Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network