Re: Odd Disc Brake Situation
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Re: Odd Disc Brake Situation



Thank you everyone.  I have 3  teenage boys and a fiance moving in soon.  So, I'm going like crazy with a house update right now too.  I'll go through your advice, but it might be a little while before I reply again.
 
I used a dual m/c from a '76 Dart.  I used the m/c for boosted disc/drum brakes.  I do notice the piston diameter is less than inch while the '76 Dart non-boosted is over an inch ( 1 1/8" ? ).  Should I switch to the larger non boosted piston m/c even though the boosted originally came with the >1" piston?
 
I worked on the rears some more tonight.  Here's something interersting.  The manual tells you to back both adjusters all teh way out when bleeding to remove air that might be trapped in the piston.  Well, backed all the way out is not really all the way out, it actually starts to bring the piston back in again.   This time I lifted the wheels and backed the adjusters off until the drums spun really freely, which was a turn just short of all the way out.  Then I bleed again and adjusted.  I did get a little pedal.
 
I also made an adjustable m/c push rod and added some length.  That may have helped a tiny bit or it was my imagination.
 
I pulled the m/c off and adjusted the push rod end coming out of the master cylinder out a bit more.
 
Ollie:  I was using a single pot the first time.  I thought Roger at AAJ said that'd work.  Someone as Forwardlook said it'd work as well.  Eitherway, I ditched it.
 
From all the above I do have some pedal, doesn't work great though.
 
So, please add any comments and let me know if a bigger bore piston would help.
 
 
 
Calipers are correct.
On Friday, July 27, 2012 7:20:08 PM UTC-4, ollie patterson wrote:
The problem appears to be in your master cylinder. Do I read you have a single pot? You need a dual master cylinder, at least 1 1/8”  piston to make the system work. If you are using a stock MC it will not work, you are not moving enough fluid.
Ollie
 
From: Herb
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2012 5:36 PM
Subject: Re: Odd Disc Brake Situation
 
Are you obsoletely positively sure you have the calipers on the correct side or not two right or two left calipers?  Your narration yells of air in the caliper.  Looking at the mounted caliper the bleeder has to be on the top, if not there is air in it and you can bleed every known way using thousands of gallons of fluid with the same result.  Power or non-power brakes makes no difference. 
 
 
 
 
-------Original Message-------
 
From: Eric R
Date: 7/27/2012 3:10:51 PM
Subject: Odd Disc Brake Situation
 
I posted this at Forwardlook as those guys have a lot of AAJ brake conversions, but got no response.
 
I bought the same kit for my 300 as I did with the Newport ( both '62's) the only difference being the 300 has power brakes and the Newport has non power.
 
I converted to AAJ. Previously I'd asked if a single pot push enough fliud to work the front discs. The answer was yes. The reason I'd asked as I had no pedal but if I clamped both front rubber lines I had pedal.

I converted to a '76 Dart M/C for power disc/drums. I still have the same issue. No pedal unless I clamp off the two front caliper hoses.
 
Strange thing is,  without the clamp and no pressure on the pedal, there is a tiny bit of pressure on the discs so they don't spin completely free, like the pressue is there, but I get pedal all the way to the floor.   Then it'll rise back up.

There appears to be enough natural pedal travel. It looks like the correct style booster.

I bleed the heck out of the m/c and all the lines. I used a Mityvac as well. Calipers are installed correctly, I used the same kit on my non-boosted Newport,works fine.

Why would blocking the calipers off give me pedal?
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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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On Friday, July 27, 2012 7:20:08 PM UTC-4, ollie patterson wrote:
The problem appears to be in your master cylinder. Do I read you have a single pot? You need a dual master cylinder, at least 1 1/8”  piston to make the system work. If you are using a stock MC it will not work, you are not moving enough fluid.
Ollie
 
From: Herb
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2012 5:36 PM
Subject: Re: Odd Disc Brake Situation
 
Are you obsoletely positively sure you have the calipers on the correct side or not two right or two left calipers?  Your narration yells of air in the caliper.  Looking at the mounted caliper the bleeder has to be on the top, if not there is air in it and you can bleed every known way using thousands of gallons of fluid with the same result.  Power or non-power brakes makes no difference. 
 
 
 
 
-------Original Message-------
 
From: Eric R
Date: 7/27/2012 3:10:51 PM
Subject: Odd Disc Brake Situation
 
I posted this at Forwardlook as those guys have a lot of AAJ brake conversions, but got no response.
 
I bought the same kit for my 300 as I did with the Newport ( both '62's) the only difference being the 300 has power brakes and the Newport has non power.
 
I converted to AAJ. Previously I'd asked if a single pot push enough fliud to work the front discs. The answer was yes. The reason I'd asked as I had no pedal but if I clamped both front rubber lines I had pedal.

I converted to a '76 Dart M/C for power disc/drums. I still have the same issue. No pedal unless I clamp off the two front caliper hoses.
 
Strange thing is,  without the clamp and no pressure on the pedal, there is a tiny bit of pressure on the discs so they don't spin completely free, like the pressue is there, but I get pedal all the way to the floor.   Then it'll rise back up.

There appears to be enough natural pedal travel. It looks like the correct style booster.

I bleed the heck out of the m/c and all the lines. I used a Mityvac as well. Calipers are installed correctly, I used the same kit on my non-boosted Newport,works fine.

Why would blocking the calipers off give me pedal?
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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On Friday, July 27, 2012 7:20:08 PM UTC-4, ollie patterson wrote:
The problem appears to be in your master cylinder. Do I read you have a single pot? You need a dual master cylinder, at least 1 1/8”  piston to make the system work. If you are using a stock MC it will not work, you are not moving enough fluid.
Ollie
 
From: Herb
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2012 5:36 PM
Subject: Re: Odd Disc Brake Situation
 
Are you obsoletely positively sure you have the calipers on the correct side or not two right or two left calipers?  Your narration yells of air in the caliper.  Looking at the mounted caliper the bleeder has to be on the top, if not there is air in it and you can bleed every known way using thousands of gallons of fluid with the same result.  Power or non-power brakes makes no difference. 
 
 
 
 
-------Original Message-------
 
From: Eric R
Date: 7/27/2012 3:10:51 PM
Subject: Odd Disc Brake Situation
 
I posted this at Forwardlook as those guys have a lot of AAJ brake conversions, but got no response.
 
I bought the same kit for my 300 as I did with the Newport ( both '62's) the only difference being the 300 has power brakes and the Newport has non power.
 
I converted to AAJ. Previously I'd asked if a single pot push enough fliud to work the front discs. The answer was yes. The reason I'd asked as I had no pedal but if I clamped both front rubber lines I had pedal.

I converted to a '76 Dart M/C for power disc/drums. I still have the same issue. No pedal unless I clamp off the two front caliper hoses.
 
Strange thing is,  without the clamp and no pressure on the pedal, there is a tiny bit of pressure on the discs so they don't spin completely free, like the pressue is there, but I get pedal all the way to the floor.   Then it'll rise back up.

There appears to be enough natural pedal travel. It looks like the correct style booster.

I bleed the heck out of the m/c and all the lines. I used a Mityvac as well. Calipers are installed correctly, I used the same kit on my non-boosted Newport,works fine.

Why would blocking the calipers off give me pedal?
--
--
Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.
 
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--
Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
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On Friday, July 27, 2012 7:20:08 PM UTC-4, ollie patterson wrote:
The problem appears to be in your master cylinder. Do I read you have a single pot? You need a dual master cylinder, at least 1 1/8”  piston to make the system work. If you are using a stock MC it will not work, you are not moving enough fluid.
Ollie
 
From: Herb
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2012 5:36 PM
Subject: Re: Odd Disc Brake Situation
 
Are you obsoletely positively sure you have the calipers on the correct side or not two right or two left calipers?  Your narration yells of air in the caliper.  Looking at the mounted caliper the bleeder has to be on the top, if not there is air in it and you can bleed every known way using thousands of gallons of fluid with the same result.  Power or non-power brakes makes no difference. 
 
 
 
 
-------Original Message-------
 
From: Eric R
Date: 7/27/2012 3:10:51 PM
Subject: Odd Disc Brake Situation
 
I posted this at Forwardlook as those guys have a lot of AAJ brake conversions, but got no response.
 
I bought the same kit for my 300 as I did with the Newport ( both '62's) the only difference being the 300 has power brakes and the Newport has non power.
 
I converted to AAJ. Previously I'd asked if a single pot push enough fliud to work the front discs. The answer was yes. The reason I'd asked as I had no pedal but if I clamped both front rubber lines I had pedal.

I converted to a '76 Dart M/C for power disc/drums. I still have the same issue. No pedal unless I clamp off the two front caliper hoses.
 
Strange thing is,  without the clamp and no pressure on the pedal, there is a tiny bit of pressure on the discs so they don't spin completely free, like the pressue is there, but I get pedal all the way to the floor.   Then it'll rise back up.

There appears to be enough natural pedal travel. It looks like the correct style booster.

I bleed the heck out of the m/c and all the lines. I used a Mityvac as well. Calipers are installed correctly, I used the same kit on my non-boosted Newport,works fine.

Why would blocking the calipers off give me pedal?
--
--
Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.
 
--
--
Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.

--
--
Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
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