Re: success at last
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Re: success at last



I don't have first-hand experience, but several guys on this board and
other Mopar guys I know don't have kind words regarding the
over-the-counter replacement drums from Napa and such.  They are
reputed to be made of cheap inferior Chinese iron that is prone to
warping.  If you can find ones made by Timken or another American
manufacturer, you may want to do that.

If you're going to Carlisle and can wait that long, I know a good
vendor who will be there.

- Jim
Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY
'63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge)
'63 Polara 500 (383)
'65 Belvedere I (Street Wedge)
'71 Bronco

On Thu, May 17, 2012 at 8:53 PM, beckstein@xxxxxxxxxxx
<beckstein@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> I think I want to seperate the drum...The drivers side is already
> seperatedand I'd like to get new drums.
> I read the article about cuttin the studs, drilling out the stud and
> removing. I feel for the price of new drums/studs its
> not a big deal. Although I'm new to auto repair I'm adventurous!
>
>
>
> On May 16, 11:00 pm, "centerline1...@xxxxxxxxxxx"
> <whittak...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>> The "correct" method of separating the drums and hubs would be to use
>> a swedge cutter to remove the swedge and then press the studs out and
>> replace them.  However, very few machine shops have swedge cutters
>> anymore. The easy solution is to cut the lugs off flush with the
>> outside of the drum and then press them out. This removes the swedge
>> so it won't damage the hub but will require replacing the drums...
>> which is probably a good idea anyway.  65 drums are very affordable
>> and available at any Napa store as are new non swedge style wheel
>> studs.
>>
>> When you reassemble everything just use a little anti-seize on the
>> inside of the hub before you put it back on. If you ever have to
>> remove it again it will be a lot easier this way.
>>
>> Bill
>> Bastrop, TX
>>
>> On May 16, 8:04 pm, "Gary H." <62to65mo...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> > Yup, at times these are very, very stuck. Congratulations are in order!
>>
>> > The hub is swedged to the drum so do you really want to remove it? Don't unless it is unusable as is. There are some tips on the 62-65 Tech page about the cohabitation of wheel studs and drum.
>> T> Thanks,
>> > Gary H.
>>
>> > >  -------Original Message-------
>>
>> > >  You may not want to try that on your on.
>> > >  Don't ruin the hub.
>>
>> > >  Jimmy
>>
>> > >  On 5/16/2012 4:42 PM,   wrote:
>> > >  > Well it took me 2 weeks but I finally was able to remove the left rear
>> > >  > drum on my 64 Dodge 440......WTF........
>
> --
> --
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>
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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-- 
--
Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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