Good Job, The first time on a job like this can take time and thought but you got it done. I don't know why you would want to separate the hub from the drum, not easy and you can damage the hub. Had a friend helping me (a Chevy guy) and he suggested just driving the studs out, cost me a drum and hub. I like the swap to a 65 complete differential. It will fit like a glove. I would pull it down clean it out, new inner and outer wheel bearing seals, bearings and brakes. You can do everything except press on the axle bearings. Any machine shop who knows old mopars will not have a problem with it. There is an adjustment for axle end play, you need to pay attention to the adjustment. If the machine shop knows Mopars the machine shop can show you the adjustment and explain how to do it. You should replace the foam gaskets, you will know when you see them. I think I got mine from Mancini but not sure. It would also be a good idea to use new "U" bolts for the springs. Ask specific questions and you should get some good answers from those who know much more than I do. http://www.moparfins.com/repairs/8-3-4_Rebuilding/Information_on_Mopar_Rears.htm http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Mopar_tapered_axle_rear_brake_conversion http://www.americancompetitionengineering.com/rear-end-/147-mopar-875-rear-axle-gasket-foam.html Let your fingers do the walking on your "Google Machine", you will be amazed at what you can find with Google. ** Important don't forget looking in the Tech and Vendor section of this site, there is a weath of imformation that has been collected. ** I put a 65 complete differential in my 63 Sport Fury. It was worth the time to go through the 65 unit with new axle bearings and seals. One last important note, the axle bearings are grease packed, they are not lubricated by differential lube. When you replace the axle seals the lips face in on both the inner and outer seals, they are there to keep the grease in the bearing. If you don't have a service manual you need to get one, either printed or on disk, they are both great. The one good thing about on disk manuals is that you can print the pages you want for the job and not worry about getting grease on them or damaging. Take Care and keep having fun with your car. Others who know much more than I do will add to what I have said here. Dennis C. On May 16, 4:42 pm, "beckst...@xxxxxxxxxxx" <beckst...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > Well it took me 2 weeks but I finally was able to remove the left rear > drum on my 64 Dodge 440......WTF......these tapered axles/swedged > drums are a bitch!! > I guess it took that long because I'm a rookie!! > > Now to see if I can separate the hub from drum!! > > I love this car!! > > John -- -- Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group. http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.