Re: Secondary Ignition Cut Out ?

[Kevin Merkley <krmerkle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I agree with the ballast resistor being defective.

Get a spare (or two) and swap it out.
For a very short time you could simply jumper the two plugs on the
ballast resistor together and it should run.

If you still have points, you run the risk of burning them with the
full 12 volts through them (that is what the ballast resistor does is
reduce the voltage to the points) but for short time, it will work and
will confirm that the ballast resistor is no good.

K.

On Mar 7, 9:45 pm, "Dennis C." <dennis.2...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> With the key in the run (not) start position you should have power to
> the ballast resistor.  You should be able to check voltage on the key
> side and the coil side.  If you are not getting voltage on the coil
> side the resistor is open.
>
> Try a jumper on the ballast resistor and see if it keeps running, if
> so it is the resistor.
>
> Good Luck
> Dennis C.
>
> On Mar 7, 6:14 pm, Eric R <hoodoovoodoo...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > So, Today I finally tried to fire up the Newport. Quite a few changes
> > to the stock 361.
>
> > Eventually I realized I had the distibuter 180 degrees and the plug
> > wiring clockwise.  It was a great fireworks show, but I decided to fix
> > that.
>
> > Now, the engine will fire/run only when the key is cranked and the
> > starter is turning.   I can keep the engine running/reving but as soon
> > as I let up on the key it dies.
>
> > I "think"  this is a secondary ignition problem?   During cranking the
> > initial ignition path is 12v?  When started it goes to another circuit
> > which takes it down to 7-8v ?
>
> > Any help figuring out where to look or what to test would be greatly
> > apreciatted.  Hopefully just some wires plugged in wrong location or a
> > "thing" that blown I can replace.
>
> > (I have to get this car up and running for 20 minutes straight to
> > burnish the cam)

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