Re: Overheating Stumped...

["Dennis C." <dennis.2914@xxxxxxxxx>]

One last remark,

With a pressure cap it is OK for temperature to increase as long as it
does not boil.

I run 13 lb caps and that = a boiling point of 244 degrees for
straight water.

Just a note on IR thermometers, they will give bad reading on objects
that reflect too much.  Check different areas or use a dull tape to
get a reading on.

Dennis C.

On Aug 13, 10:32 am, Bill M <y1topbanan...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> So I'm trying to diagnose the issue that's causing my new 4-core
> radiator to make the car run hotter than with my previous 3-core
> radiator. Not only does it run hotter at cruising, but it starts
> getting hot IMMEDIATELY upon stopping at a light to the point of being
> scary.
>
> Basically the only thing I changed id the radiator. Car is 318 Poly
> with a mild cam, 7 blade fan, fan clutch (confirmed working), no
> shroud (never had one), now new 180 deg high-flow t-stat, spring in
> lower hose.
>
> The symptom I cant figure out now is...after testing things today and
> keeping an eye on temps w/ a laser thermometer, I turned it off to let
> it cool and scratch my head. When the rad, and upper hose had cooled
> to ~165, the lower rad hose was dead cold. I pulled it off and there
> is no restriction in the hose or the pump. I looked in the water pump
> from below and don't see anything up there either. It's not leaking
>
> Any thoughts??
>
> Bill M
> 65 Coronet 500 'verthttp://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo62008.html
> 73 Dart Sport, 00 Cherokee Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie
> 21 Model T Depot Hack, 92 Accord, 06 Mazda 3

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