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If you can find a shop near you that polishes parts
for cars that are cromed there or somewhere else you can get your headers
glass-bead blasted. Then, just before you paint them, you wipe off the
dust real good. I got my blasted when I tried to paint them and the hot
engine burned the paint off the headers. Some of it was left. My
buddy blasted my coated headers without hurting them and they looked nearly new
again.
Body shops also might be able to blast off your
headers before they are painted. Its like one engine builder said to
me. 1300 degree paint burned off of headers in the old days and 1300
degree paint still acts in the same way. You need much higher temp. paint
for it to not burn off. I said I thought it would work better because the
paint contained ceramic material now and it didn't them. He said it was
still rated for 1300 degrees and would burn off every time. After watching
it burn off of my headers during its first "dry" run, I believe
him.
I washed my headers a few days in a washtub with
soap and water before they got painted. Then I never touched thems
again. I put part of an undone coathander through one of the holes and
tied the header to a tree in the sun and let it dry. It only got painted
on a sunny day low in humidity. All that work and I go and use the wrong
paint. I only had to rinse them off after my friend blasted the paint off
that was left.
I think I just pointed you in the right
direction. I have been there and done that. I'm not alway
right. I'm not always wrong either. Just want to make your car and
engine come out as good as they can the best and easiest way. You are
getting one of my (and everyone else's) favorite cars on the road and everyone
is happy about that, for sure.
Chick
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, August 12, 2011 8:58
PM
Subject: Re: Header paint
Mine are factory they are just covered in surface rust. I figured a good
scotch pad cleaning, then a couple coats of paint would do the
trick
Sent from my iPhone
I tried to paint my headers as they were coated
but a little scratched up. I used 1300 degree paint and it burned off
the first time the engine started.
The engine man said you have to use 17 or 1800
degree paint or it will burn off.
Chick
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, August 12, 2011 5:38
PM
Subject: Re: Header paint
Rich,
When I get home tonight I'll give you the info on what I used to redo
my TTI's for the Poly stroker. The paint is as good as it was a year and a
half ago when I did them.
Nick Tiberio
FuryUs63
From: "Richard Kinsley" <leroar.kinsley058@xxxxxxxxx>
To:
1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent:
Friday, August 12, 2011 4:03:44 PM
Subject: Header
paint
My TTI's have taken quite a bit of abuse over the last 5 or
so years. Besides being rubbed raw they are quite stained from misc oils
and other fluids. I don't want to spend $250 to have them recoated and
mainly the timing would be an issue. I already have lost all the season so
far and don't want any more slow downs. I am planning to clean them as
best I can with acetone and then use the VHT header paint in a similar
silver color. I was thinking of the stainless steel paint I used on the
intake and front cover but that stuff is three times as expensive as VHT
and is rated at 400deg whereas the VHT is something like
1500deg..
I know header paint has always been an issue but I want something to
work NOW and it can be redone on the next build in a couple years. Anybody
with previous experience?
--
Rich Kinsley '64
Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies
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transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to
the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice
will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune
the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar
Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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-- -- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only
one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions
and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content
signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse
Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html
and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. --
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only
one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions
and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal
to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion
Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html
and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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