Good link Neil, thanks. Here's a pile of random headliner links and posts I've cobbled together. - Jim Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY '63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge) '63 Polara 500 (383) '65 Belvedere I (Street Wedge) '71 Bronco http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/howto/mopp_0608_mopar_car_headliner_replacement/index.html http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/howto/mopp_0210_how_to_replace_your_headliner_on_your_dodge_dart/index.html http://www.hotrod.com/howto/76318_headliner_installation/index.html http://www.restorick.com/tech/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=5 the headliner material is folded over the lip that follows the roofline down the rear windows and glued and clipped till dry then the chrome that holds the rubber above the glass is reinstalled and that also helps hold it i found this to be the hardest part to get to look correct take your time and keep adjusting before you cement it! Quote - “I'm not sure if my calling them sail panels is correct.” Close enough for me Steve! That “dark stiff fiberboard” that the lights were attached to if not broken away, would have the same shape of the entire sail panel (C pillar) area. The board material was the backing used with some ¼ inch or so of insulation on it much like the other insulation pads throughout the car - under the dash and kick panels etc. As per your description and my memory, I believe as you said, the insulation side of the “board” was against the C pillar with some adhesive and the light base / socket mounted on top of the board helping to hold it in place. Then the headliner material covered all that with the lens and bezel to finish it off. I believe Joe B. answered the attachment of the liner itself nicely, thanks. While on the insulation thing, there was also a sheet of maybe 3 / 8 inch thick non-backed insulation cemented to the underside of the roof. I don’t know if this or the C pillar insulation is available or not. But I will need it (or something) in the future. Does anyone else know? Joe? if i remember correctly they just press in to holes on the sides no clips i just did mine a few months back and there were no clips involved 2 small sprinds holding the rearmost bow from going forward, and the bows is all there is,its quite a job to get the headliner tight start at the front and work towards the back go from side to side and keep pulling on the extra bow pockets attached to the headliner using them as ropes to pull the slack out youll need to cut them away from the headliner a few inches in from the end of the hoops it took me 3 headliners in 3 different cars before i got mine looking professionally installed theres a few little tricks that i picked up watching someone who new how to do it, the sail panels are a bi!%H and youll need about 25 small clips to keep clipping and adjusting fom side to side from front all the way to the back when you finally get it tight then you cement the edges and then reclip till your glue dries good luck Hi Steve, Regarding your two questions for the headliner bows, yes, the bows were touching the insulation pad to the inside of the roof helping to hold the pad in place. As to the mounting location of the last rear-most bow, this bow should have a unique clip at each end. It is metal and rolled to a tubular shape and bent midway to nearly 90 degree with a black oxide finish. The bow rod slips into the open end while the other (90) end is bent rounded to close. This end fits into a (3/8”?) hole (the only hole) located in the 16” long recessed area of the ‘C’ pillar (roof side frame) that runs at an angle following the rear quarter window opening. Then of coarse the two spring wires attach to the bow and above the rear window frame. This time I’m gonna take a picture of this arrangement before I disassemble it again! All set? On Thu, Jun 30, 2011 at 5:43 PM, neal zimmerman <neal.zimmerman@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: > I just ordered one for one of my cars, its gonna be my first ever > install. My guess is you don't want the spray adhesive, but tube or > brush on. I am sure all it is is rubber cement. You only do it around > the edge. The center zones" float". I went to a shop and the quote was > out of sight, ridiculous 500 dollars, and all the typical," u dont > understand, this is very complicated, blah, blah, blah."Sorry, I dont > buy it. Anybody with half a brain, that can read directions, follow > them to a tee, and prepares ,studies up and does several dry runs can > do most anything. so tired of these car wizard guys trying to make > their work sound more dificult than it is. theyre not rockets. > > Try this for starters- its from a Chevelle site, but they are all > about the same- > http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=161372 > > Look up on you tube also, theres a bunch of videos on there. > > the final stage of tightening up is completed with a mister bottle > and blow dryer > Neal Zimmerman, Eugene Oregon > > -- > -- > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! > > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group. > http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en. > -- -- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group. http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.