RE: crankshaft key?

[David Bailey <bb64d440@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

You say you had a hard time getting the old gear off originally. I see in your pic the cam gear is (back on?) in place. Even though it was difficult, were you able to remove both gears and chain as an assembly?
Did you need/use a puller or pry bars? (I’m only trying to get a “feel” for just “how tight” it was.) 
Secondly, you’re able to easily slide the old and new gears onto your spare motors’ crank, is that with or without a key in the crank keyway? Test fitting first without the key is a good idea. This gives opportunity to get other trouble spots out of the way, and then if troubles arise “with” the key, you know what to work on. Also, try test fitting the gear to the shaft backwards. If it stops at the same place, the problem is likely the shaft/key or if it stops somewhere differently the problem is likely the gear and not the shaft/key.
Next I’m wondering, at what position is the stuck key “in”? Does the top flat look to be exactly parallel to the crank or maybe slightly higher at the back?
Yet another thing to look at are the square (inside/outside) corners at the top of the key and where the key enters the shaft keyway, and the inside/outside corners of the keyway in the gear. New parts are especially notorious for having extremely sharp corners; it doesn’t hurt to just knock-off that sharpness.
Ok, after all that, we still DID NOT get the old key out, did we? Had you tried letting it soak with penetrating oil? Lastly, when all else fails, it’s time to take the kid gloves off and get down-rite BRUTAL!  After all, it is not welded in there, so it “will” come out. Get that hammer and chisel and start swinging, just try to keep that chisel point under the key and pointed up and away from the shaft though a few scratches minor nicks can be filled smooth during the gear test fit process.      
GOOD LUCK.

Dave B
In restoration stage to - as original 
'64 Dodge B-body 440, 2dr ht 
383 cid, 4 bbl, 4 spd, duel exh
ZZW - Anniversary Gold w/ white side sweep





 
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> From: spigot2039@xxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: RE: crankshaft key?
> Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2011 18:30:44 -0600
> 
> 
> Hi all, 
> 
> I tried to get the crankshaft key out today and so far no luck. The lower timing gear slides on 3/4 the way then snags. I figure the key is slightly mushroomed toward the engine? I thought I'd take a small, fine flat file and try to file down the key lightly while it was in the crankshaft. I gently filed down the top, only toward the engine, no problem. Then I tried to get both of the sides. I made some progress then started to get a tiny bit of "scratch" marks on the crank from the file so I stopped. The gear still gets snagged up though. I don't think I can get the new timing chain set on with the gear hanging up like that. Any ideas?
> 
> By the way, I have a parts poly 318 motor apart and I can slide in and out the crankshaft timing gear on that motor by hand easily. I can even use the old gear from the motor I am trying to fix and slide that crankshaft gear off and on the parts motor by hand with no resistance. Totally unlike the motor I am trying to repair. 
> 
> Also, I did line up the timing gear dots. The camshaft gear's timing dot is at 6 o'clock and the crankshaft gear's dot is at 12 o'clock. Is that right? See http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/temp/poly-318-timing-marks.jpg
> 
> Thanks,
> Gary H. 
> 
> -----Original Message----- 
> >
> >Yes, those woodruff keys can be a challenge sometimes. It’s a common keying method found on a lot of industrial equipment. I used the word "deformed" perhaps I should have added even the slightest “nick” on the key or in the keyway will cause trouble. But probably the big fault can be what you said, rust or corrosion under it. You’re wise to remove the key and clean it and the keyway up. Once it’s out, lay the key flat on smooth-cut flat file and with just light finger pressure, slide it back and forth a few times on each surface. You’ll immediately be able to detect any nicks, as the key will “hang up” on the file. If the key doesn’t smooth out in just one or two passes, get a new one. Excessive filing will make it too small and will fit too lose. It should fit snugly. Forgive me if I’m explaining something you already know but I think it’s worth saying, when inserting the key into the shaft, be sure it’s seated and leave the starting edge just slightly low enough to start the gear then as the gear goes on it will self align the key to the slot in the gear, using a little lube oil will also help. Good luck. 
> >
> >Dave B
> > 
> >'64 Dodge 
> >
> > 
> >> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> >> From: spigot 
> >> 
> >> Thanks, I'll check it out, though I don't remember seeing any obvious deformation of the key. I did notice that I had a heck of a time getting the old lower timing gear to slide off and I was unable to put the new gear on. The new gear makes it about 2/3 onto the crankshaft, then gets snug; so snug in fact that even tapping on it with a small hammer and flat chisel won't budge it. That's when I figured the key may be slightly raised or have some rust or corrosion under it, pushing it up a tiny bit. I even took the old gear and tried to put it back on and it did the same no-go at 2/3 in. So I figured I'd take the key out and clean all up, but could not get it removed before I ran out of daylight. Another old car repair adventure! :) 
> >> 
> >> Thanks,
> >> Gary H. 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> -----Original Message----- 
> >> >I agree with Jim and Brian’s method but you might also want to take a close look at that part of the still exposed key that it is not deformed in any way. It could work against you by not being able to "rock" or move in the keyway as described. Another approach would to be use a small ¼” wide chisel and hammer gently working the chisel point under the point of the key up and out of the keyway. 
> >> >And assuming the crank and key can be turned straight up, maybe a soaking with a little penetrating oil or perhaps some of this “special penetrating stuff” Automatic Transmission Fluid & Acetone. A 50/50 homebrew mix would also help?
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >Dave B
> >> > 
> >> >'64 Dodge
> 
> 
> ----
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> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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> 
 		 	   		  
--
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. 

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