RE: crankshaft key?

["Gary H." <spigot2039@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi all, 

I tried to get the crankshaft key out today and so far no luck. The lower timing gear slides on 3/4 the way then snags. I figure the key is slightly mushroomed toward the engine? I thought I'd take a small, fine flat file and try to file down the key lightly while it was in the crankshaft. I gently filed down the top, only toward the engine, no problem. Then I tried to get both of the sides.  I made some progress then started to get a tiny bit of "scratch" marks on the crank from the file so I stopped. The gear still gets snagged up though. I don't think I can get the new timing chain set on with the gear hanging up like that. Any ideas?

By the way, I have a parts poly 318 motor apart and I can slide in and out the crankshaft timing gear on that motor by hand easily. I can even use the old gear from the motor I am trying to fix and slide that crankshaft gear off and on the parts motor by hand with no resistance. Totally unlike the motor I am trying to repair.      

Also, I did line up the timing gear dots. The camshaft gear's timing dot is at 6 o'clock and the crankshaft gear's dot is at 12 o'clock. Is that right? See http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/temp/poly-318-timing-marks.jpg

Thanks,
Gary H. 

-----Original Message----- 
>
>Yes, those woodruff keys can be a challenge sometimes. It’s a common keying method found on a lot of industrial equipment. I used the word "deformed" perhaps I should have added even the slightest “nick” on the key or in the keyway will cause trouble. But probably the big fault can be what you said, rust or corrosion under it. You’re wise to remove the key and clean it and the keyway up. Once it’s out, lay the key flat on smooth-cut flat file and with just light finger pressure, slide it back and forth a few times on each surface. You’ll immediately be able to detect any nicks, as the key will “hang up” on the file. If the key doesn’t smooth out in just one or two passes, get a new one. Excessive filing will make it too small and will fit too lose. It should fit snugly. Forgive me if I’m explaining something you already know but I think it’s worth saying, when inserting the key into the shaft, be sure it’s seated and leave the starting edge just slightly low enough to start the gear then as the gear goes on it will self align the key to the slot in the gear, using a little lube oil will also help. Good luck.  
>
>Dave B
> 
>'64 Dodge  
>
> 
>> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
>> From: spigot 
>> 
>> Thanks, I'll check it out, though I don't remember seeing any obvious deformation of the key. I did notice that I had a heck of a time getting the old lower timing gear to slide off and I was unable to put the new gear on. The new gear makes it about 2/3 onto the crankshaft, then gets snug; so snug in fact that even tapping on it with a small hammer and flat chisel won't budge it. That's when I figured the key may be slightly raised or have some rust or corrosion under it, pushing it up a tiny bit. I even took the old gear and tried to put it back on and it did the same no-go at 2/3 in. So I figured I'd take the key out and clean all up, but could not get it removed before I ran out of daylight. Another old car repair adventure! :) 
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Gary H. 
>> 
>> 
>> -----Original Message----- 
>> >I agree with Jim and Brian’s method but you might also want to take a close look at that part of the still exposed key that it is not deformed in any way. It could work against you by not being able to "rock" or move in the keyway as described. Another approach would to be use a small ¼” wide chisel and hammer gently working the chisel point under the point of the key up and out of the keyway. 
>> >And assuming the crank and key can be turned straight up, maybe a soaking with a little penetrating oil or perhaps some of this “special penetrating stuff” Automatic Transmission Fluid & Acetone. A 50/50 homebrew mix would also help?
>> >
>> >
>> >Dave B
>> > 
>> >'64 Dodge


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