I would be interested in knowing a first hand comparison between the poly and the rubber bushings. I had a struggle deciding on the rubber bushings for my particular needs..............................MO ----- Original Message ----- From: "Butch Edison" <waedison@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2010 11:10 AM Subject: RE: B body disc brakeThanks Herb. I used rubber bushings on this car. I have a set of polys that I'm going to use on my other one, just to see if I notice a difference. This car has the original ball & trunnion U-joint setup, so will hazard a guess that this was the original (or at least correct) transmission for the car.
The magnet was a dollar sized washer, which sounds right per your note. No, I didn't adjust the bands (arghh) because when I saw the metal burrs (all very small strands), I figured "just stop the leaks and have it rebuilt". The linkage has been welded on at least once, so that looks like a good opportunity to make the thing shift correctly. I'll post a different note on that, so I don't screw up this thread. Appreciate the follow-on remarks about the pads. Can't wait for the rain to stop so I can get it out on the road for a few hundred miles!
/Butch/Ferndale, WA -----Original Message----- From: Herb [mailto:zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx] Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2010 2:45 AM To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx Subject: RE: B body disc brakes Congrats! Had the same experience with my 63 Sport Fury restoring the front & rear suspension! Did you use rubber or poligraphite bushings? 727s came with a magnet about the size of a thick silver dollar with a hole in it in the pan and don't be too worried about the chia look!! That is just normal wear & tear. Tranny shops have been scarring people for years, just like you did yourself, by showing customers the metal flakes in the pan or on the magnet while shaking their heads and wondering how they made it to the shop!! Now, if you have big chunks that's a different story. The shifting correctly problem is more than likely your kickdown linkage. If adjusted correctly, under normal acceleration, it should shift at 25 & 35 MPH. Did you adjust your bands when you had the pan off? Now's a great time to ask he says to him self... (-; Before I speculate any more what is the shift problem? You probably wont feel the front or rear applying unless your way off. Do a couple of panic stops and make sure the rear is not locking up before the front. Also expect to go through two or three sets of front pads to a set of rear shoes over time. If not too much rear braking. Front should do about 80% of the braking. What say you? Herb 1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361 1959 Coronet 326 Poly 1963 Fury 2D/HT 6.1 1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361 1970 Challenger RT 440 - 4 Sale 1999 Durango SLT 5.9 2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1 St. Louis, MO. http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo42009.html -------Original Message------- From: Butch Edison Date: 1/16/2010 12:04:06 AM To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx Subject: RE: B body disc brakes Well, this part of the car's restoration is done. All new suspension in the rear, restored steering coupler and power steering, restored front end linkage A-to-Z, disc brake conversion complete. It may quit along the highway somewhere, but it's safe to drive now and very pleasurable to drive as well. The front end tech said it dialed in like a dream and it rides like one too. No more leaks from the engine or tranny oil pan. Now.... on to the A727. It doesn't shift correctly and when I had the pan off, found that the previous owner had put a magnet in the pan and it looked like a chia brillo pad with all the steel particles on it. If there is anything odd, it is that the proportioning valve is wide open, yet the car stops like I'd expect it to. I thought I'd have too much back braking with the valve open all the way. I'll drive it some, then start cutting fluid to the back brakes to see what happens. I have not done any hard stops yet. Should I actually feel the fronts apply first? Thanks, /Butch/Ferndale, WA [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ----Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
----Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
This email was sent to: arc.6265@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx u/?bUrDWg.bSONJP.YXJjLjYy ?p=TEXFOOTER