RE: Monster MoPar Video

[Steven Charette <stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Mike,
	Just got to watch the video last night, thanks!

	What are you shifting at??

Thanks,
SC 

-----Original Message-----
From: mike creglow [mailto:mcreglow@xxxxxxxxx] 
Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 11:22 PM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Fwd: Monster MoPar Video

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Hi Steve,

I apologize for the delay, but there was an issue at work that required my
attention.  This is a long response, but you did ask for it.

My first rule is that if you cannot put the power to the ground you are
wasting your money.  That said, the old MoPar Chassis manual is a wealth of
information if you want performance out of a leaf spring car.  There are
some tricks in the front suspension that will help with lift and weight
transfer.  I'm using the MoPar drag torsion bars, although I've been told
that the 'B' body 6 cyl torsion bars are better if you can find a good set.
 I'm using Calvert 90/10 drag shocks -- for $100 they are a good deal and
work really well.  Also, I try and make the shocks as long as possible by
stacking washers on the bottom side of the inner fender, and remove the
upper control arm bump stops.  Refer to the following URL:

http://s596.photobucket.com/albums/tt41/mcreglow/?action=view&current=IMGP07
70.jpg

This combination causes the front of the car to lift ~3/4" more then usual
and will transfer weight to the rear wheels where you want it.
Last but not least are the alignment angles to use to correct bump steer or
toe change due to front suspension travel. You can achieve 1
1/2 degrees positive caster and 1/4 degree positive camber -- it corrects
the toe pattern to within an 1/8 inch total toe change throughout the
suspension travel.  I run 29" tall tires up front.

Next is the rear suspension.  I have moved the front and rear leaf spring
hangers on the frame rails to accommodate larger tires (I also mini-tubbed
the wheel wells by 3").   I use p3412002 and p3412003 MoPar SS springs
(A-Body) as they are best at controlling spring wrap up and torque roll.
These springs are stiffer and .300 thick vs. the standard .250.  Two clamps
should also be installed just behind the passenger front spring eye and one
clamp all the way back on the driver's side rear segment.  Refer to the
following URLs:

http://s596.photobucket.com/albums/tt41/mcreglow/?action=view&current=IMGP07
71.jpg
http://s596.photobucket.com/albums/tt41/mcreglow/?action=view&current=IMGP07
75.jpg

I use 12-way adjustable QA1 1539 rear shocks.  Also, note that by moving the
leaf springs on the frame rails will effectively make the shocks longer.
 The pinion angle for the street is 4 degrees and 5 to
7 degrees for the track.  I do not use a pinion snubber -- I adjust the
clamps on the front segments for that control.  These stock suspensions will
overwork the tire, so on good hooking tracks you need to stiffen the shocks,
add tire pressure, and add clamps to the rear leaf spring segments to calm
the car down which will lower 60 ft times.  When you install SS springs you
will notice that there is more arch in the pass side spring vs. the drivers
side. Raise the driver's side front with the torsion bar adjuster to lower
the pass side rear corner to level the car side to side front and rear
keeping a 2 to 3 degree nose down attitude at the sill. This preloads the
right rear tire to help control torque roll in the rear axle.  I am running
10.5Wx31" tall M/T slicks on 10" steel rims with 5 3/4" offset on a narrowed
Dana 60 (4.88 gears).  The old adage tall tires and steep gears is applied
here.

Drive train:
Motor: 400 block with 4.15" Eagle crank, Eagle 440 connecting rods, Ross
forged pistons (12.5 compression), gap-less rings, Cam Motion custom grind
mech flat tappet cam (.640"
lift/ 283 duration @ 50), Indy SR heads that have been ported to max wedge
size (valves 2.19/1.81), Indy single plane intake, Holley dominator (8896),
MSD ignition system w/ digital 6-plus, crank triggered ignition, TTI 2"/2
1/8" step headers.

Transmission: A-727 w/ Griner reverse pattern valve body, Ultimate (A Lopo
understudy) 5100 stall converter, bolt in sprag, stock gear set, ultra-bell.

hopefully I answered your questions,
Mike



On Thu, Oct 8, 2009 at 2:02 PM, Steve Mick <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Hi Mike, to me that is amazing the launch you are getting  with your set
up.
> I am planning and building a 1964 dodge 440 two dr hdt for street and 
> occasional strip. 413 and 4 speed, 3.55 rear gear.1/8 mile.  I expect 
> yours is a 440. Could you tell me your basics on the engine  and how 
> you hook up like that?  I would guess a close pinion snubber ? What 
> torsion bars? size and width of slicks? If you can find the time to 
> answer all this, it would be much appreciated.............Steve

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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

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