Re: Monster MoPar Video

[mike creglow <mcreglow@xxxxxxxxx>]

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6900 for 1-2 shift
7100 for 2-3 shift
rev limiter set at 7600
valves will float at 7800

On Wed, Oct 14, 2009 at 7:33 AM, Steven Charette
<stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> Mike,
>        Just got to watch the video last night, thanks!
>
>        What are you shifting at??
>
> Thanks,
> SC
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mike creglow [mailto:mcreglow@xxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 11:22 PM
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Fwd: Monster MoPar Video
>
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> Hi Steve,
>
> I apologize for the delay, but there was an issue at work that required my
> attention.  This is a long response, but you did ask for it.
>
> My first rule is that if you cannot put the power to the ground you are
> wasting your money.  That said, the old MoPar Chassis manual is a wealth of
> information if you want performance out of a leaf spring car.  There are
> some tricks in the front suspension that will help with lift and weight
> transfer.  I'm using the MoPar drag torsion bars, although I've been told
> that the 'B' body 6 cyl torsion bars are better if you can find a good set.
>  I'm using Calvert 90/10 drag shocks -- for $100 they are a good deal and
> work really well.  Also, I try and make the shocks as long as possible by
> stacking washers on the bottom side of the inner fender, and remove the
> upper control arm bump stops.  Refer to the following URL:
>
> http://s596.photobucket.com/albums/tt41/mcreglow/?action=view&current=IMGP07
> 70.jpg
>
> This combination causes the front of the car to lift ~3/4" more then usual
> and will transfer weight to the rear wheels where you want it.
> Last but not least are the alignment angles to use to correct bump steer or
> toe change due to front suspension travel. You can achieve 1
> 1/2 degrees positive caster and 1/4 degree positive camber -- it corrects
> the toe pattern to within an 1/8 inch total toe change throughout the
> suspension travel.  I run 29" tall tires up front.
>
> Next is the rear suspension.  I have moved the front and rear leaf spring
> hangers on the frame rails to accommodate larger tires (I also mini-tubbed
> the wheel wells by 3").   I use p3412002 and p3412003 MoPar SS springs
> (A-Body) as they are best at controlling spring wrap up and torque roll.
> These springs are stiffer and .300 thick vs. the standard .250.  Two clamps
> should also be installed just behind the passenger front spring eye and one
> clamp all the way back on the driver's side rear segment.  Refer to the
> following URLs:
>
> http://s596.photobucket.com/albums/tt41/mcreglow/?action=view&current=IMGP07
> 71.jpg
> http://s596.photobucket.com/albums/tt41/mcreglow/?action=view&current=IMGP07
> 75.jpg
>
> I use 12-way adjustable QA1 1539 rear shocks.  Also, note that by moving the
> leaf springs on the frame rails will effectively make the shocks longer.
>  The pinion angle for the street is 4 degrees and 5 to
> 7 degrees for the track.  I do not use a pinion snubber -- I adjust the
> clamps on the front segments for that control.  These stock suspensions will
> overwork the tire, so on good hooking tracks you need to stiffen the shocks,
> add tire pressure, and add clamps to the rear leaf spring segments to calm
> the car down which will lower 60 ft times.  When you install SS springs you
> will notice that there is more arch in the pass side spring vs. the drivers
> side. Raise the driver's side front with the torsion bar adjuster to lower
> the pass side rear corner to level the car side to side front and rear
> keeping a 2 to 3 degree nose down attitude at the sill. This preloads the
> right rear tire to help control torque roll in the rear axle.  I am running
> 10.5Wx31" tall M/T slicks on 10" steel rims with 5 3/4" offset on a narrowed
> Dana 60 (4.88 gears).  The old adage tall tires and steep gears is applied
> here.
>
> Drive train:
> Motor: 400 block with 4.15" Eagle crank, Eagle 440 connecting rods, Ross
> forged pistons (12.5 compression), gap-less rings, Cam Motion custom grind
> mech flat tappet cam (.640"
> lift/ 283 duration @ 50), Indy SR heads that have been ported to max wedge
> size (valves 2.19/1.81), Indy single plane intake, Holley dominator (8896),
> MSD ignition system w/ digital 6-plus, crank triggered ignition, TTI 2"/2
> 1/8" step headers.
>
> Transmission: A-727 w/ Griner reverse pattern valve body, Ultimate (A Lopo
> understudy) 5100 stall converter, bolt in sprag, stock gear set, ultra-bell.
>
> hopefully I answered your questions,
> Mike
>
>
>
> On Thu, Oct 8, 2009 at 2:02 PM, Steve Mick <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>> Hi Mike, to me that is amazing the launch you are getting  with your set
> up.
>> I am planning and building a 1964 dodge 440 two dr hdt for street and
>> occasional strip. 413 and 4 speed, 3.55 rear gear.1/8 mile.  I expect
>> yours is a 440. Could you tell me your basics on the engine  and how
>> you hook up like that?  I would guess a close pinion snubber ? What
>> torsion bars? size and width of slicks? If you can find the time to
>> answer all this, it would be much appreciated.............Steve
>
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>
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
>
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> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
>
>
>
>

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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.

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