Leaf Spring Racing: Was Monster MoPar Video

[Donald Gallimore <dongallimore@xxxxxxx>]

This info is a keeper.  Thanks. I've got two sets of spring clamps and just didn't understand how to use them.  

How does clamping and not clamping the rear of the spring affect the traction?  I'd suspect the clamps makes for a harder launch.

  Akron Don 




________________________________
From: mike creglow <mcreglow@xxxxxxxxx>
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 11:22:18 PM
Subject: Fwd: Monster MoPar Video

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Hi Steve,

I apologize for the delay, but there was an issue at work that
required my attention.  This is a long response, but you did ask for
it.

My first rule is that if you cannot put the power to the ground you
are wasting your money.  That said, the old MoPar Chassis manual is a
wealth of information if you want performance out of a leaf spring
car.  There are some tricks in the front suspension that will help
with lift and weight transfer.  I'm using the MoPar drag torsion bars,
although I've been told that the 'B' body 6 cyl torsion bars are
better if you can find a good set.  I'm using Calvert 90/10 drag
shocks -- for $100 they are a good deal and work really well.  Also, I
try and make the shocks as long as possible by stacking washers on the
bottom side of the inner fender, and remove the upper control arm bump
stops.  Refer to the following URL:

http://s596.photobucket.com/albums/tt41/mcreglow/?action=view¤t=IMGP0770.jpg

This combination causes the front of the car to lift ~3/4" more then
usual and will transfer weight to the rear wheels where you want it.
Last but not least are the alignment angles to use to correct bump
steer or toe change due to front suspension travel. You can achieve 1
1/2 degrees positive caster and 1/4 degree positive camber -- it
corrects the toe pattern to within an 1/8 inch total toe change
throughout the suspension travel.  I run 29" tall tires up front.

Next is the rear suspension.  I have moved the front and rear leaf
spring hangers on the frame rails to accommodate larger tires (I also
mini-tubbed the wheel wells by 3").   I use p3412002 and p3412003
MoPar SS springs (A-Body) as they are best at controlling spring wrap
up and torque roll. These springs are stiffer and .300 thick vs. the
standard .250.  Two clamps should also be installed just behind the
passenger front spring eye and one clamp all the way back on the
driver's side rear segment.  Refer to the following URLs:

http://s596.photobucket.com/albums/tt41/mcreglow/?action=view¤t=IMGP0771.jpg
http://s596.photobucket.com/albums/tt41/mcreglow/?action=view¤t=IMGP0775.jpg

I use 12-way adjustable QA1 1539 rear shocks.  Also, note that by
moving the leaf springs on the frame rails will effectively make the
shocks longer.  The pinion angle for the street is 4 degrees and 5 to
7 degrees for the track.  I do not use a pinion snubber -- I adjust
the clamps on the front segments for that control.  These stock
suspensions will overwork the tire, so on good hooking tracks you need
to stiffen the shocks, add tire pressure, and add clamps to the rear
leaf spring segments to calm the car down which will lower 60 ft
times.  When you install SS springs you will notice that there is more
arch in the pass side spring vs. the drivers side. Raise the driver's
side front with the torsion bar adjuster to lower the pass side rear
corner to level the car side to side front and rear keeping a 2 to 3
degree nose down attitude at the sill. This preloads the right rear
tire to help control torque roll in the rear axle.  I am running
10.5Wx31" tall M/T slicks on 10" steel rims with 5 3/4" offset on a
narrowed Dana 60 (4.88 gears).  The old adage tall tires and steep
gears is applied here.

Drive train:
Motor: 400 block with 4.15" Eagle crank, Eagle 440 connecting rods,
Ross forged pistons (12.5 compression), gap-less rings, Cam Motion
custom grind mech flat tappet cam (.640"
lift/ 283 duration @ 50), Indy SR heads that have been ported to max
wedge size (valves
2.19/1.81), Indy single plane intake, Holley dominator (8896), MSD
ignition system
w/ digital 6-plus, crank triggered ignition, TTI 2"/2 1/8" step headers.

Transmission: A-727 w/ Griner reverse pattern valve body, Ultimate
(A Lopo understudy) 5100 stall converter, bolt in sprag, stock gear set,
ultra-bell.

hopefully I answered your questions,
Mike



On Thu, Oct 8, 2009 at 2:02 PM, Steve Mick <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Hi Mike, to me that is amazing the launch you are getting  with your set up.
> I am planning and building a 1964 dodge 440 two dr hdt for street and
> occasional strip. 413 and 4 speed, 3.55 rear gear.1/8 mile.  I expect yours
> is a 440. Could you tell me your basics on the engine  and how you hook up
> like that?  I would guess a close pinion snubber ? What torsion bars? size
> and width of slicks? If you can find the time to answer all this, it would
> be much appreciated.............Steve

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