Re: MP Electronic Ignition - Ballast - Final

[moparbikeguy@xxxxxxx]

If you check the old chassis manual, it will tell you exactly what ballast resistor to use in different applications (coils and control boxes)


'65 Coronet 500 stroker


-----Original Message-----
From: Rich Kinsley <rlkinsley@xxxxxxxxx>
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Sun, Aug 2, 2009 10:07 am
Subject: RE: MP Electronic Ignition - Ballast - Final




Can you test your BR to see what ohm rating it is? I'm curious. I 
suspect 1.5ohms. My car runs crappy with the 1.5ohm resistor. It runs 
good with the .8ohm BR. It actually seems better with the .8 than with 
it bypassed.

The 3volt drop seems bad to me. At that rate you are discharging your 
battery. Of course that's at idle and I assume it charges once you get 
some rpm's going? Check the volyage at your battery. It shouldn't run 
below 12volts. Usually you see 12.5 - 13.5 volts. Maybe a bit more even. 
You can pull the alt and have it tested. Mine had low output before I 
did my upgrade.

Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies
=====================================================================
laborboy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> 
> I was off the site for about a week due to travel and when I returned, 
> to my great surprise, we were still talking about ballast resistors! 
> What a wonderful site, and a great group of guys. Dennis and others, 
> thank you for your continued research. 
> 
> I spoke to a Jegs rep, and asked if I needed the B.R. included in the MP 
> 
> kit since I also bought a separate new MP coil. He said yes, that the 
> circuitry in the distributor needed the lower voltage or would 
> eventually go bad. 
> 
> I told him about the voltage loss problem, and the car cutting out at 
> idle: He said it was more likely a problem with my alternator or my 
> electronic system. He also claimed that the B.R. lowered the voltage to 
> distributor, not the coil. But I didn't understand that because the wire 
> 
> from the passenger side of the B.R. runs directly to the positive 
> terminal on the coil--not to the distributor. The instructions have me 
> hooking up the wire from the driver's side of the B.R. to the 
> distributor box, which does not have lowered voltage. So, I was still 
> confused. 
> 
> But I did run a series of voltage tests:
> 
> B.R. used, engine cold
>                   B.R., drivers side   At + coil
> -Ignition on       10.75                 3
> -Idling            12
                    6
> -Idling w/
>  acc on, in drive  12                    4.5
> 
> B.R. bypassed, engine warm
>                   B.R., drivers side   At + coil
> -Ignition on       10                    9.3
> -Idling            13.8                  13
> -Idling w/
>  acc on, in drive  10.3                  9.7
> 
> I don't understand how they could have me use the B.R. with this new MP 
> coil, because it's only getting 6 volts bypassed. Someone else here said 
> 
> it needs 9-11, which it is getting when bypassed. 
> 
> The drop in voltage is about 3v in drive with air conditioning, lights 
> and radio on--is that excessive?



Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.