RE: Intake manifold replacment

[dwalters@xxxxxxxxxxxx]

Jim Altemose wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> Any tips, tricks or gotchas for replacing an intake manifold on a 63
> 383?  I'm planning on media blasting it before painting it.  Any good
> way to clean the runners and bolt holes?  When I install it, any
> advice on what sealant to use?  Anything I'm not thinking about?
> 
> As always, thanks.
> 
> - Jim
> Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY
> '63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge)
> '63 Polara 500 (383)
> '65 Belvedere I (Street Wedge)
> '71 Bronco

There is yet another way that guarantees you won't ever suck oil again. 
What you're trying to duplicate is the benefits of an aftermarket 
one-piece valley tray with the added benefit of having the recessed area 
of the OE tin.

Briefly, you cut all the runners off the tin leaving a small 
longitudinal  section/strip which then gets folded under the head 
instead of sandwiched between the head and intake. Basically, you're 
taking the material leftover after cutting off the runners and bending 
it from the stock 45* UP angle, to a 45* DOWN angle. It does take a bit 
of fitting to get tight gaps. You then run a bead of Ultra Blue along 
the joints and under the end rails. 

To ensure you have parallel intake faces, you bolt just one side down 
(either the driver's OR passenger side) of the intake. Then measurement 
the gap on the opposite side at the port faces. You want a consistent 
and parallel gap. A std uncompressed paper gasket is .020". I use .060" 
Ultra Seals. If your gap is in the .010"-.020" range AND consistent the 
paper gasket should be fine.  

The tin will never leak if enough sealer is applied. The problem with 
paper gaskets is that they wick oil and fuel over time. If you have 
ported heads like some of us do, the problems are exacerbated. 

I don't have a pictorial of this process but it's fairly well known to 
the old timers. If I do another engine I take pics next time...

Feel free to ask questions if you want to do this. 


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