Re: Disc Brakes!

[Dan McCormack <mcwheels@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Bill,
If it was me I'd certainly try changing the MC before I spent all that 
money. There's one other possibility here too. The A body disc brakes used a 
smaller 2.60" bore caliper piston from 73-75 as opposed to the more common 
2.75" bore piston used in the 76 A body and most other Mopars. If I 
understand Don's explanation correctly that smaller bore caliper piston 
would also increase pedal pressure. Not knowing which caliper or MC piston 
size you have I'd take Don's advice and go with a small MC bore and see what 
happens. I see NAPA has a 15/16" bore MC listed for a 1974 Plymouth Scamp 
with manual disc brakes. It's NAPA part number UP 36406 for $89.99 and 
that's the one I'd go with. This is their top of line new MC. They have a 
cheaper one but for some reason that's listing the bore size as 1 1/32" with 
manual brakes plus when it comes to brake (and steering) parts I always go 
with the best. Plus I've never had good luck with rebuilt MC's I always buy 
new.

Make sure you bench bleed it first and install the rubber locking retainer. 
I'm a little concerned that you had to shim the MC. Master Power Brake does 
sell and adjustable push rod.

Let us know how it works out if you give it a try, Dan


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "William Cole" <wedge64@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 8:12 AM
Subject: Re: Disc Brakes!



Dan,
Not sure of the MC I put on the car. It's been a couple years since I
did it. I know it's a disc/drum MC but not sure of the bore size. I have
the rears adjusted properly, as far as I can tell. I know I had to shim
the MC out a little after installing it because it was holding pressure
on the front disc's. It works fine now after that.
It may well be the MC is too big a bore and requires more pressure to
stop. I used a semi-metallic shoes on the back, which may not of been
the best choice. I know after I drive the car a while it stops somewhat
bettr. Just seems like it takes too much pressure to get it to do that.
I think I just need a matched setup to make the car stop like it should.
That's why I was thinking of the Master Power setup.
I guess it would be cheaper to try a different MC to see it that helped
before I drop $1300 or $1400 on the Maste Power stuff.
I do have manual brakes and the cam I'm running is the biggest hydraulic
cam that Racer Brown makes so, power brakes is out of the question.

Thanks,
Bill C.


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