Re: Pushbutton probs cont..

[Robert <r.lane@xxxxxxxxxx>]

Great answer, thanks Gary.
Must get hold of one of them mirrors on a stick....
Robert

> ----Original Message----
> From: wedge65@xxxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Feb 15, 2007 3:45:52 AM
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Subj: Re: Pushbutton probs cont..
> 
> 
>   Robert, After you take out the 1/4" bolt holding the wheel with holes in 
> it, you pull the cable housing toward the front of the car and it will 
slide 
> out of the transmission with about 1/2"-1" clearance with the cable core 
> still hooked to the transmission. Then you can insert a small slot 
> screwdriver in the top area of the cable hole and there is a release 
spring 
> wire close to the top sticking up ( it will be at about either 11 o'clock 
or 
> 1 o'clock). You move the screw driver handle to where the tip moves side 
to 
> side and pushes on the spring wire side to side,. while gently pulling on 
> the cable. What you are trying to do is unwind the spring where it will 
> release the cable end. Don't give up and you will finally push on the 
> release spring sideways and the cable will come out of the transmission. 
It 
> will have a pointed end on it so it is easy to reinstall a new one.
>   To adjust the cable with the pan off, I always use a small mirror with 
a 
> extending handle to look above the rooster comb with a light where you 
can 
> see and  look to be sure the ball sits in the detent made for it with 
the 
> transmission in reverse. Then you can get someone to push the buttons and 
> with the mirror check and be sure it is falling in the detent for each 
gear. 
> It take a little time but it always works for me. Good luck with it. 
Sorry 
> for the long post. Gary Bradshaw Ft. Worth, Texas
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Robert" <r.lane@xxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 8:16 PM
> Subject: Pushbutton probs cont..
> 
> 
> >
> >
> > Well, we (bro Stuart & I) managed to get a few more hours on the Polara at 
> > the weekend, trying to get to the bottom of our pushbutton woes.
> > Took Schuyler's (amongst others) advice and dropped the pan to get 
a 
> > better idea of what's going on inside. Must admit we didn't really know 
> > what we were looking for, as the manual doesn't appear to give any 
idea of 
> > what the cable operates inside the trans, but trusted the advice that 
it'd 
> > all become clear once 'inside'!
> > (See pics on link below)
> > Starting point was that no gears could be selected, except occasionally 
> > the Neutral pb would stay latched in. Kind of.
> > First of all, removed the adjuster locking screw and backed off the 
> > adjuster a few turns, as per FSM instructions. The manual then says 
to 
> > insert a screwdriver to release the cable. With the car on jack stands, 
> > and with just about enough room to get under the car, and with oil 
still 
> > dripping from the trans, I defy anyone to be able to get a screwdriver 
> > where it's suppose to go, and be able to see what you're doing!!
> > Even with the oil-pan dropped, we couldn't see for definite how the 
cable 
> > separates from the mechanism inside, so we opted to leave the cable 
> > attached and just try and re-adjust it.
> > What was clearer with the pan removed, was the (what I'll call a) plunger 
> > that moves in and out when the pushbuttons are operated (marked 'A' 
in the 
> > pics). With the adjuster backed off, pressing the buttons made the 
> > 'plunger' move back and forth just enough to see where R, N, D, 2, 
1 
> > should be.
> > With my glamorous assistant (ahem) topside keeping the R button pushed 
in, 
> > I made sure the plunger was all the way back in the R position, then 
> > pushed the cable back in, and started screwing the adjuster back in 
so it 
> > just came up to contact the face of the gearbox. Found it hard to get 
> > exactly the point where the 2 surfaces came into contact, so backed 
it off 
> > and tried again. Happier that the adjuster was approx in the right 
> > position to start counting holes, proceeded with the FSM method of 
setting 
> > the adjuster.
> > While I was still under the car, Stuart said the buttons were latching 
& 
> > holding their positions, at least a lot better than before. Just 1st 
gear 
> > wasn't being selected so we worked out which way to turn the adjuster and 
> > turned it by 1 hole-pitch to see if it made any difference. Didn't 
really 
> > have the desired effect, but were happy we'd got a lot closer to having 
> > some gears back. A bit more adjustment may get it all set up correctly, 
> > but we want to try and lube the cable itself next. Had to leave it 
there 
> > for the day, as we both have wives & kids that think there's more to 
> > weekends than working on the car!
> > One area for concern with the cable, we're not sure if it's been affected 
> > by being about 1/2" away from he exhaust (see pics). It's been lagged 
in 
> > some type of protective foil (previous owner maybe?), but I don't know 
if 
> > some of our problems could be due to the cable not moving freely in 
the 
> > outer.
> > We thought it best to order a new cable (& the parking one, while we're 
at 
> > it) so that we can see easier what we need to do to remove the old one(s). 
> > Still a bit concerned about damaging the selector unit when removing 
the 
> > old cables.
> > First of all tho, we'll try to lube what's there and see if a bit more 
> > adjustment gets us to where the car's useable again. That way we can 
fit 
> > the new cables when they arrive. Still got our vibrations to sort out, 
so 
> > cant afford to have it sitting, garage-bound for much longer.
> >
> > If anyone can advise, looking at the pics, how to separate the cable 
from 
> > the trans, I'd be very grateful. There's a small circlip ('B') that 
looks 
> > like it retains the cable in some way, but the manual didn't mention 
it so 
> > we left well alone.
> > And if there's any more tips on getting all the gears, that's be great 
> > too!
> >
> > Photos: 
> > http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rob426uk/album?.dir=/55f8scd&.src=ph&.tok=phpimSGBsl3SQHql
> >
> > Sorry for the long rant by the way,
> >
> > Best Regards
> >
> > Robert
> > 63 Polara 500
> > England
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> > ----
> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person 
--  
> > directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and 
> > negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended 
> > recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will 
protect 
> > your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content 
> > signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> >
> > '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
> >
> > 
> 
> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
 directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations 
as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to 
the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce 
the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  
Thanks!
> 
> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 
> 
> 


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.