Re: Those are the brakes
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Re: Those are the brakes



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Squeal - Pull the drums and check the shoes for glazing. You can knock the glaze off with sandpaper. The drums might appreciate a turn as well.

Wheel cylinders - I use Raybestos or Bendix. Last rear wheel cylidner I bought was a Raybestos WC37053 for my '65 Polara. My cost was $10.68 for a brand new part. You'll have to pay a bit more but it should still be affordable.

Dave Casey

----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff" <Acuda4me@xxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 11:32 AM
Subject: Those are the brakes



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The car in question is a little off topic (68 Dodge Polara Wagon), but I figure this board will have a little more experience living and working with drum brakes than the C-body boards and the info from here is always top notch. Anyway, I elected to forgo a disk brake/wheel upgrade until at least when my new tires wear out, so that means I'll be serivicing 4 drum brakes for another couple of years.

Problem #1: I re-did the front drums a couple of months ago and they now squeal quite a bit. What can I do about squealing drum brakes, if anyone knows.

Problem #2: I redid my rear brakes about six months ago, but the rear wheel cylinder jammed open and they have since worn down to nothing. Who makes the bust wheel cylinder replacements or rebuild kits and what is the best way to determine what size I have?

Question 1: Who is making the best 11" x 2" rear drums these days, if anyone?

Question 2: I have always had drum brakes on at least the rear of all my Mopars and have found the old vice-grip/channel locks work best for removing the big springs. But does anyone make a GOOD brake spring tool these days, since it seems I will be doing them a few times in the foreseeable future?

Question 3: I read years ago in the Slant Six News that a good upgrade for the 9" brakes was the current-generation spring kits for like a 1990 Dakota to replace the weak original holddown springs. Is there any such animal for the 11" drums I have now?

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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!


'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.

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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.


bOyW3N.









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