Also,riveted linings give less trouble than bonded. And buy a decent brake tool! I turned wrenches for years and was never without mine. --- Dave Casey <dcasey@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > Your free subscription is supported by today's > sponsor: > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > Take our Nationwide Ice Cream Survey today! Receive > a FREE* $100 > Restaurant Gift Card of your choice or $100 worth of > Ben & > Jerry?s® or Häagen-Dazs® ice cream for > participating! > caad3P6b7B6Msa/Ice > Cream Research Survey > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Squeal - Pull the drums and check the shoes for > glazing. You can knock the > glaze off with sandpaper. The drums might appreciate > a turn as well. > > Wheel cylinders - I use Raybestos or Bendix. Last > rear wheel cylidner I > bought was a Raybestos WC37053 for my '65 Polara. My > cost was $10.68 for a > brand new part. You'll have to pay a bit more but it > should still be > affordable. > > Dave Casey > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jeff" <Acuda4me@xxxxxxx> > To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> > Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 11:32 AM > Subject: Those are the brakes > > > Your free subscription is supported by today's > sponsor: > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > Did president Bush react quickly enough to hurricane > Katrina? > caad3P2bUYx2xa/Nationwide > Survey > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > The car in question is a little off topic (68 Dodge > Polara Wagon), but I > figure this board will have a little more experience > living and working with > drum brakes than the C-body boards and the info from > here is always top > notch. Anyway, I elected to forgo a disk brake/wheel > upgrade until at least > when my new tires wear out, so that means I'll be > serivicing 4 drum brakes > for another couple of years. > > Problem #1: I re-did the front drums a couple of > months ago and they now > squeal quite a bit. What can I do about squealing > drum brakes, if anyone > knows. > > Problem #2: I redid my rear brakes about six months > ago, but the rear wheel > cylinder jammed open and they have since worn down > to nothing. Who makes the > bust wheel cylinder replacements or rebuild kits and > what is the best way to > determine what size I have? > > Question 1: Who is making the best 11" x 2" rear > drums these days, if > anyone? > > Question 2: I have always had drum brakes on at > least the rear of all my > Mopars and have found the old vice-grip/channel > locks work best for removing > the big springs. But does anyone make a GOOD brake > spring tool these days, > since it seems I will be doing them a few times in > the foreseeable future? > > Question 3: I read years ago in the Slant Six News > that a good upgrade for > the 9" brakes was the current-generation spring kits > for like a 1990 Dakota > to replace the weak original holddown springs. Is > there any such animal for > the 11" drums I have now? > > [Non-text portions of this message have been > removed] > > Your free subscription is supported by today's > sponsor: > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > Need a new Cell Phone? A BlackBerry 7250 could be > yours free! Find > out how! > caad32RbUYx2xf/Amazing > phone > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > > ---- > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to > only one person -- > directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car > transactions and negotiations > as well as other personal messages only to the > intended recipient, not to > the Clubhouse public address. This practice will > protect your privacy, > reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the > content signal to Mopar > topic. Thanks! > > '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. > > Your free subscription is supported by today's > sponsor: > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > Frustrated by your Technology? Can't get it to work > properly? > Get HiWired! 45 min over phone, problem solved. > Learn More. > caad3QXb7B6Msf/LightFrog > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > > ---- > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to > only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., > send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well > as other personal messages only to the intended > recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This > practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total > volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to > Mopar topic. Thanks! > > '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. > > > > > > > George __________________________________ Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 http://mail.yahoo.com