nick and rich
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nick and rich




The question Nick asked was also on my mind.
I have just helped a pair of friends sort out a carbmess because "The Dyno guy said...."  Sometimes the dyno guy is just the dyno guy. The most accurate dyno is the track, you cars weight and a 1/4 mile. Usually within 2 % . 
Anytime and i do mean anytme yyou are more than 4 sizes away from stock on a Holley carb. (less on an AFB because the steps are bigger) you can be sure you are off track. 
Jet sizing is determined by trottle bore size tobegib with  and is 1/240th of that size. from there it s a trim to get to the indiviual carb charcteristics which can be  fiarly broad variety. After that there is only too rich too lean and darn near pefect (3 sizes , right?) In my or book i gave some practical ways totel where you are at. While notreal sceintific them have helped me over theyears and i have learned to listen to them as quite simply put they work.  Popping at higher speed is usually too rich. Sagging perfomanc as speed builds is often lean but unless it actually runs out offuel it quite often doesnt pop. 
A  good place to start as Nick so wisely mentioned is what does it run like with carbs out of the box? from there to ideal should be no morethan one or two sizes in most cases. 
We have this idea that carbs are jetted for a particuar type of engine. I often hear well I cant use that because it is jetted for a chevy or a ford. An engine is an engien is an engine and sde oesnt give a hoot what brand is on it .they al require the same mixture to run right manifolds are diferent someties with lean corners and such but in general they all want the same. That is of course  the reason why snowmobile carbs work on a slant six. As long as the mixture is set right. (BTW exact same setting as on the snowmoblie) it runs fine and the motor doesn't know the difference. 
You have tried a lot of ignition stuff. It would appear from here you have tried enough to prove it is not an ignition problem I would at least think. 
Just some thoughts Don

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