Re: {Chrysler 300} 1962 Trans Shifter Cable Adjustment

Hey Matt;

In regard to having a lift, some basic questions:

do you have a separate garage? Next line

are the side walls 10' or more? Next line

if so, how are the trusses centered?

All these things can be worked around if you have limited space. Under your house, no way.

Go to the club articles and refer to my article on installing a lift in my shop building.

Most lifts require about 12'6" clearance. and about 10' width.

ONLY get an overhead (clear floor) lift.

That way there is nothing underfoot to trip over or interfere with a trans jack.

I did not have enough space overhead due to trusses and a side wall of only 10'.

The article shows how I worked around that.

By the way, for anybody looking to buy a lift, my son installed one last year with 11' between posts. He can open the doors on his 3500 Dually while in the lift. If you have the floor space, that's another important thing to think about. This 9000# lift was under $3k delivered.

Ray Jones

On Sun, May 3, 2026 at 1:07 PM 'Matt Allyn' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Imperial Services.
(Wish I had a Lift = Jealous!)

Matt Allyn

On May 3, 2026, at 10:06 AM, Nick Taylor <nicksgaragesd@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Where did the new cable come from? One one car we had to fiddle with the adjustment to make it work consistently. Of course we had a lift which made it easy.

On Sun, May 3, 2026, 10:03 AM 'Matt Allyn' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
I installed a new Shifter Cable and followed the step-by-step instructions from the factory shop manual….

(1) Raise the car on a hoist. Have an assistant
hold the R (reverse) button firmly depressed.
(2) Remove the push button control cable ad-
justment wheel lock screw at the left side of trans-
mission (Fig. 22).
(3) Rack the adjustment wheel off on the cable
guide (turn counter-clockwise) until two or three
threads are showing on the guide behind the wheel.
IMPORTANT
Test the wheel for free turning on the guide; re-
move any dirt or burrs in the threads of the cable
guide that may interfere. Lubricate the cable guide
threads with a few drops of transmission fluid.
(4) Hold the control cable guide centered in the
hole of the transmission case and apply only enough
inward force (approximately two pounds) to bottom
the assembly at the reverse detent. While holding
the cable bottomed, rotate the adjustment wheel
clockwise until it just contacts the case squarely.
(5) Turn the wheel clockwise just enough to make
the next adjustment hole in the wheel line up with
the screw hole in the case.
(6) Counting this hole as number one, continue
turning the wheel clockwise until the fifth hole lines
up with the screw hole in the case.
• 7) Install the lock screw, and tighten to 40 inch-
pounds torque.

And yet…..My car does not drop into gear upon pressing “D". I have to press “1” for it to go into Drive mode.
And so….I feel I need to pop the cable out & start all over again.
(Or maybe NOT pop the cable fully OUT, but remove the lock screw from the adjustment wheel & then back off the wheel as it notes, and then start back with the adjustment procedure?)

Any helpful hints that may be over & above what the shop manual tells me?
Or….Just follow those steps again & have fun?

Thanks!

Matt Allyn

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