RE: {Chrysler 300} Heater Control valve

On a non 300 car I bought, the heater core had been blocked for years. Fixed all that and then the valve dripped slowly. (That’s annoying!) Took a week or more catching the drips but it slowly stopped. Been good for years now. Then I read that the nylon in heater valves shrinks when dried out but can swell back up again when wet. This is what happened to me so don’t despair if an unused valve leaks. Soak it for a week or two and it may come good. (Your results may vary.)

Henry

From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Carl Bilter
Sent: Thursday, 5 September 2024 2:34 AM
To: James Douglas; chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Heater Control valve

When they were daily drivers, the valves would last, I dunno, maybe 20 or more years?

Yes, a bit of a PITA to R&R on the J and K, but the wiper link doesn't need to be removed.

Joe Hudacek rebuilds the valve for $100. Good as new.

Carl B.

------ Original Message ------

From "'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

To "chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

Date 9/4/2024 11:13:43 AM

Subject {Chrysler 300} Heater Control valve

I just placed an order for the Vintage Air servo heater control valve. I really want to get the valve out of the cockpit. Over the decades I have head them start to leak and stain carpet. In addition, on the 300K it is a real PITA to get too. Removing the glove box and a wiper link and the cable catching on things to get it off…

My plan is to make a bracket to screw into the same holes as the existing and then mount the unit on it on the engine side. Since they make a linear potentiometer for use with a cable, I can make a little bracket and place inside the dash down low and accessible and then just run the wire out to the valve.

I may also look at making a bracket with a short rid with some spherical joints to push pull on the POT right at the back of the controller and do away with the cable entirely.

When I am done, I will post some photos of how it all works or not. I mean for a $160 and a couple of hours of work to get that thing out and more accessible, if it works it will be a good thing for a daily driver.

James

--
For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/CY5PR19MB61719D8A430B84694EFA41A5939C2%40CY5PR19MB6171.namprd19.prod.outlook.com.

--
For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/em1b3150c0-a3d1-4048-bd9f-c00c3ea6cb1c%406e861ec9.com.