Hi James ,
a few words ; i tried to do all that 5 years ago— I did actually . First you cannot “ weld” the tank as it is too thin you blow holes in the thin metal instantly , and it warps instantly . it is galvanized ,burns off in and out plus it is rippled with
lines embossed in ( 60 F anyway) so you cannot add a flat plate etc etc . Trying to do that cost me two tanks destroyed , one new . And a month.
I wanted pickup and return in a little box at bottom as is common in race cars . I Over thought all this . Box prevents starvation of pump , the overspeed that results can hurt it
I did finally do it by rethinking it, using teflon washers and so called “ bulkhead fittings “ . I soldered the brass washers to the fitting on the one outside the tank . Nut inside
I bought a FiTech system , hot stuff at the time , Porsche pump outside , filters etc Two lines . RPM pickup , bung for O2 ( those punt too ,and very location sensitive)
Used the old suction pipe as a vent . Did not want return spraying around inside making gas vapor .
All along had late night misgivings about complexity , safety and failure modes . Any of this punts on road you are done for .
No one can help you . Tow . To where?
Then I started reading about fires with high pressure fuel , etc etc and a guy killed by fire at drag race when clutch explosion severed FI fuel line . Bad way to go .
I had mine inside frame at times most of way but still . Thought about steel pipe sleeves.I had run up firewall
like they show you to do. Don’t want to be toasted critter .
Time passed , years. —- maybe a month or two of effort had gone into all this and its details back then . Wiring complicated to slow pump depending on need otherwise screaming at full output . Poor info on all that , regulator or not etc etc After a while
I felt just not ready for prime time on my car in general . OK on oem , And Holley is in this business now .
But i read one day in Hot Rod of a low dollar Ford 460 build ( offset grind con rod journals Chevy journals / rods etc .Got up over 500 cubic inch . ( I always liked that motor) .Aluminum heads. Point is 600 ho 600 ft lb . maybe 5k$ . That’s 225 hp
more than ram car , with one simple carb that costs less than a rebuild of carbs.
But critical :— for $ reasons They used a Brawler carb ( low end holley) and remarked they were amazed with AF senders on each cylinder it was perfect A/F ratio across ALL operating ranges . (!!!) Out of box,they touched nothing ) .Did not have to .
Air flow is air flow …. any motor , was my thought
They further remarked that carbs are extremely accurate now , order of magnitude better accuracy than our AFB , due to computer modeling of flows etc arising out of pollution control efforts . Add in it is calibrated for ethanol gas , which our 300
are not , so ours will run a bit lean . You may get there , ” Tuning” I doubt it . And I have a life to live , not stressed by fighting with old inaccurate carbs. —- That seem to end up rich to run at all .
So I did a 180 , removing all the FI stuff , who needs all these hassles and failure modes especially . And unfixable even by a holley engineer for weeks if it acts up . plus fire . Plus computer BS . And related intermittents.
No thanks . Good in a toyota as an engineered system .
Good thing to talk about , hard to decide . Ignore hype , think for yourself ….
Hope this helps ; your tank stays as it is . Engine too .
nice thought , right?
Spare carb in trunk if worried. Save 2-3 k and months of time …
jg
Sent from my iPhone
I was wondering the same thing about where is the fuel p[pick up…
I am going to buy a new tank for the ’64. I plan on drilling and welding a return bug into it. New Tank---no boom.
I also want to see if I can adapt a Walbro in tank pump and maintain the stock sender unit.
I can tell folks that I purchased a new repro sender for my ’47 DeSoto and the thing was junk. I wept through the plate as they just put a minimum of sealant and then riveted the two plates. I needed to drill
it out and then make a gasket with sealant and then rivet it and then hammer the rivets flat. A PITA for a “new” sender.
James
Hey, guys .. found this , it is a great thing ; it comes 0-90 ohms but you can flip it over to get 90-0 ( does not say that anywhere but i did it ) we are 90 ohms empty close to zero full ( 10 ohms I think
) we don’t care too much about F but sure care about E .
So I made a mistake started copying bends etc on stock unit . Not too swift of me; then realized that cannot work . So when all else fails , read the directions .
The way this works the arm always moves 90 degrees , so pivot has to be in middle of tank depth . so that is 1/2 full it moves up and down equally from there . Many oem have pivot up high and bent arm but then travel cannot be 90 degrees as At E float might
then hang straight down ( !) which i did in error by putting pivot where oem was and tried bending arm . All wrong . read directions ( lookin at myself)
so pivot half way in tank easy , after flip over , then arm is just straight you cut it for total travel of arc up and down . They give you a nice chart for those lengths , just measure depth of tank where float will be
Really well made variable resistor, much better quality than stock , real springs pushing contact , not bent sheetmetal —and only 25$ . plus you can slide arm in and out get E perfect if you want to fuss around .
huge problem solved ! ( does not fix poorly calibrated gauges , but this end can be right) Will have to remount to mopar disc , that’s easy .
awwwright !
john g
Sent from my iPhone
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