Hi James ,--a few words ; i tried to do all that 5 years ago— I did actually . First you cannot “ weld” the tank as it is too thin you blow holes in the thin metal instantly , and it warps instantly . it is galvanized ,burns off in and out plus it is rippled with lines embossed in ( 60 F anyway) so you cannot add a flat plate etc etc . Trying to do that cost me two tanks destroyed , one new . And a month.I wanted pickup and return in a little box at bottom as is common in race cars . I Over thought all this . Box prevents starvation of pump , the overspeed that results can hurt itI did finally do it by rethinking it, using teflon washers and so called “ bulkhead fittings “ . I soldered the brass washers to the fitting on the one outside the tank . Nut insideI bought a FiTech system , hot stuff at the time , Porsche pump outside , filters etc Two lines . RPM pickup , bung for O2 ( those punt too ,and very location sensitive)Used the old suction pipe as a vent . Did not want return spraying around inside making gas vapor .All along had late night misgivings about complexity , safety and failure modes . Any of this punts on road you are done for .No one can help you . Tow . To where?Then I started reading about fires with high pressure fuel , etc etc and a guy killed by fire at drag race when clutch explosion severed FI fuel line . Bad way to go .I had mine inside frame at times most of way but still . Thought about steel pipe sleeves.I had run up firewalllike they show you to do. Don’t want to be toasted critter .Time passed , years. —- maybe a month or two of effort had gone into all this and its details back then . Wiring complicated to slow pump depending on need otherwise screaming at full output . Poor info on all that , regulator or not etc etc After a while I felt just not ready for prime time on my car in general . OK on oem , And Holley is in this business now .But i read one day in Hot Rod of a low dollar Ford 460 build ( offset grind con rod journals Chevy journals / rods etc .Got up over 500 cubic inch . ( I always liked that motor) .Aluminum heads. Point is 600 ho 600 ft lb . maybe 5k$ . That’s 225 hp more than ram car , with one simple carb that costs less than a rebuild of carbs.But critical :— for $ reasons They used a Brawler carb ( low end holley) and remarked they were amazed with AF senders on each cylinder it was perfect A/F ratio across ALL operating ranges . (!!!) Out of box,they touched nothing ) .Did not have to . Air flow is air flow …. any motor , was my thoughtThey further remarked that carbs are extremely accurate now , order of magnitude better accuracy than our AFB , due to computer modeling of flows etc arising out of pollution control efforts . Add in it is calibrated for ethanol gas , which our 300 are not , so ours will run a bit lean . You may get there , ” Tuning” I doubt it . And I have a life to live , not stressed by fighting with old inaccurate carbs. —- That seem to end up rich to run at all .So I did a 180 , removing all the FI stuff , who needs all these hassles and failure modes especially . And unfixable even by a holley engineer for weeks if it acts up . plus fire . Plus computer BS . And related intermittents.No thanks . Good in a toyota as an engineered system .Good thing to talk about , hard to decide . Ignore hype , think for yourself ….Hope this helps ; your tank stays as it is . Engine too .nice thought , right?Spare carb in trunk if worried. Save 2-3 k and months of time …jgSent from my iPhoneOn May 16, 2024, at 6:43 PM, 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:--I was wondering the same thing about where is the fuel p[pick up…
I am going to buy a new tank for the ’64. I plan on drilling and welding a return bug into it. New Tank---no boom.
I also want to see if I can adapt a Walbro in tank pump and maintain the stock sender unit.
I can tell folks that I purchased a new repro sender for my ’47 DeSoto and the thing was junk. I wept through the plate as they just put a minimum of sealant and then riveted the two plates. I needed to drill it out and then make a gasket with sealant and then rivet it and then hammer the rivets flat. A PITA for a “new” sender.
James
From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of John Grady
Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2024 12:13
To: chrysler 300 club <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} Amazon.com MOTOR METER RACING Swing Arm Type Universal Fuel Level Sender Float 0-90 ohms Suitable for Depth 5-27 Adjustable
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For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
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You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/3D12A35A-89BC-4547-8C4B-D658A15E2499%40gradyresearch.com.<image001.jpg>Hey, guys .. found this , it is a great thing ; it comes 0-90 ohms but you can flip it over to get 90-0 ( does not say that anywhere but i did it ) we are 90 ohms empty close to zero full ( 10 ohms I think ) we don’t care too much about F but sure care about E .
So I made a mistake started copying bends etc on stock unit . Not too swift of me; then realized that cannot work . So when all else fails , read the directions .
The way this works the arm always moves 90 degrees , so pivot has to be in middle of tank depth . so that is 1/2 full it moves up and down equally from there . Many oem have pivot up high and bent arm but then travel cannot be 90 degrees as At E float might then hang straight down ( !) which i did in error by putting pivot where oem was and tried bending arm . All wrong . read directions ( lookin at myself)
so pivot half way in tank easy , after flip over , then arm is just straight you cut it for total travel of arc up and down . They give you a nice chart for those lengths , just measure depth of tank where float will be
Really well made variable resistor, much better quality than stock , real springs pushing contact , not bent sheetmetal —and only 25$ . plus you can slide arm in and out get E perfect if you want to fuss around
huge problem solved ! ( does not fix poorly calibrated gauges , but this end can be right) Will have to remount to mopar disc , that’s easy .
awwwright !
john g
Sent from my iPhone
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