Real polish is a light cut compound. Most people who use the term don't often mean what polishing really means. Any so-called "polish" that is absent abrasives is a wax, glaze, synthetic sealer, gloss enhancer or other dressing that works by temporarily filling microcratches and surface defects until the distillates evaporate, thereby improving reflectivity without removing paint.
Real polishing is an act and use of a substance for removing paint - abrading away micro scratches.
The surface has to be evaluated to determine how much abrasive and which machine and pad, if any are to be used. Photos are useless in evaluating much beyond approximate color.
If you plan to do this sort of thing now and again it is worth a Porter-Cable 7424 dual action buffer and a set of pads. Do not buy or borrow a rotary buffer such as those used by skilled dudes at body shops. A rotary requires training in order to avoid burning through your paint which can only be fixed with new paint. As Ron says, there are YouTube videos that walk you through the method using an orbital to correct swirls, holograms and other minor defects.
The dual action buffers make it hard to wreck your paint because they don't generate much heat on the paint field. Conversely dual actions take longer and will not take out the kinds of defects a rotary in proper hands can. Which brings me to the following question:
Are you planning to perform paint correction again on other cars or even this one 10 years from now if it should need it? If not, find the body and paint shop you like best and have them look it over. A rotary with a foam pad and grade of polish/compound that match the defects will have that car look brand new.
Danny Plotkin
-----Original Message-----
From: "Tim" <timb@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, April 6, 2024 11:31am
To: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: {Chrysler 300} Paint correction/buffing/ceramic
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