IMHO it seems your paint looks good so I would recommend going from light to harsh rather than the other way around. That is, try a good polish first (I like NuFinish) as it takes oxidation off as well as putting polish on. If that is not good enough try scratch remover by hand. I found Meguiar’s Scratch X works wonders on old clear coat. Takes out the light scratches that show so easily in clear. If that is still not good enough, get a motorised buff and start with the finest grade and then polish. All can be done without paying “professionals”. Just be careful of corners! Only then would I recommend going to a shop if you are not happy with the finish, or do what I did and learn what they know. I learnt to colour sand new paint from books before the interweb! I colour sanded my 300C a couple of months after getting it back from the painters and letting it harden properly as per the photo. I don’t like orange peel even though that would be factory. It is a lot of work but is satisfying.
NB I tried claying once on old clear coat and it was a disaster. Just put scratches in it. Maybe I did it wrong (probably) but my theory was that the clay just picked up particles out of the paint and turned it into sandpaper. I won’t be doing that again. I won’t bother with ceramic coating either but can’t give any experience.
Henry
From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Ron Waters
Sent: Sunday, 7 April 2024 2:28 AM
To: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} Paint correction/buffing/ceramic
IMHO, what you don’t want is a car with Corvette gloss. That looks very unoriginal.
It’s hard to tell how shiny your car is. But it’s a good idea to educate yourself as to how cars are professionally detailed. There are a bunch of excellent videos by the Chemical Guys on YouTube. I would be worth watching them.
It’s about 5 steps, starting with ‘claying’ the entire car. Then two polishing steps using two different compounds along with two different pads. Then a seal coat.
There are lots a ‘expert detailing’ shops that will be happy to relieve you of 1500, while doing a quick buff. It’s good to know the right questions to ask.
Ron
From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx On Behalf Of Michael Corrigan
Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2024 11:56 AM
To: Tim <timb@xxxxxxxxxx>; chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Paint correction/buffing/ceramic
Tim
It sure looks like “it pops” to me!
Get Outlook for iOS
From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> on behalf of Tim <timb@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, April 6, 2024 11:31:46 AM
To: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} Paint correction/buffing/ceramic
Hi all...seeking opinions.
My 61G Convert was professionally body off restored in concert with Greg Grooms and Gary Goers probably in 1994-5.
I have had it 3 years. The previous owner bought it at auction freshly restored in 95. To the casual observer it looks just fine. But I have been thinking about trying to make it really pop and glow again.
I've had a few conversations with professional paint restorer people about paint correction, buffing, and ever ceramic top coating.
I am not a student of any of this. Good idea, risky idea, ad idea? Thoughts?
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