Re: {Chrysler 300} 1960 300F Wheel Cylinders, Dot5
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Re: {Chrysler 300} 1960 300F Wheel Cylinders, Dot5



Jim I second John Grady’s plug for Dot5 silicone fluid vice Dot3 or Dot4.  Now is the time to change it over because it requires new wheel cylinders as you are doing, new master and new hoses (flush or replace hard lines) as you may already know.  Bob Merritt was a proponent of this and I followed his advice and have been very happy with the change over to Dot5 on our K.  

A warning for all of us- check the brake fluid you get carefully.  While I was changing the K over to Dot5 a few months ago, my local Napa was having delays getting it in stock.  I called another parts place and they said they had some, and when I got there it was Dot5.1.  I was asking if that was the same or compatible with Dot5 and the guy at the counter said he thought so, but I read the bottle, and not only is it not Dot5 silicone, it isn’t even compatible with Dot5.  Now who would come up with such a convoluted scheme of numbering brake fluid in a way that could cause someone (even the guy working at the parts store) to think that these fluids would be compatible and possibly cause a safety of life issue for someone mixing the two?

I will check with our local Napa for the 32551,2,3,4 wheel cylinders if they can see any indication when they might be available. Personal preference but I almost always buy everything from Napa- if the stuff ever has problems (including electrical like sending units and voltage regulators, etc) they exchange it for a replacement with no hassle.  

V/r
D&K

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 11, 2023, at 8:30 AM, John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Wheel cylinders are pretty basic cast iron   I would expect any that you find new would work . Be sure you are aware Rand L are unique . 
I assume you have the pits in the bottom from glycol fluid left in too long ? Very smart to change them . That is a disaster waiting to happen . And not uncommon , happened to me . Water settles out the there once glycol is saturated with water , makes a pit under lip of seal . And that always  happens given enough time . . Why Mercedes requires change of glycol brake fluid every few years . I ignored that as too conservative on an 80 300 TD wagon , cost me 2000 in brake parts rusted inside after ten years .causes leaks in drum brakes , stuck calipers on discs . 
One of the main reasons I love silicone in our cars despite fussiness of getting in right . 
Ideal for stored cars , it will not absorb water why military uses it . And rubber loves it . 
If you shake it or get air in it you have to wait months . Really 

I found large cans on line long ago military surplus .
John 

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 11, 2023, at 6:08 AM, Nick Taylor <nicksgaragesd@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:


We got the centric ones for a 1961 Belvedere and the lower fronts have the bleeders too close to the steering. Also, it took three different sizes of wrenches for the bleeder screws. 

On Wed, Jan 11, 2023, 2:01 AM Marshall Larson <granitledge@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
I have the Centrics in three cars. Functioning properly.

On Tue, Jan 10, 2023 at 8:29 PM Jim Birr <jebirr@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Hi everyone.  Looking to pickup new wheel cylinders for my F.  Found following sources and rough prices:
  • Andy Bernbaum - $40 ea
  • Rock Auto - Dynamic Friction $16.60/ea
  • Rock Auto - Centric $18/ea
  • MoParPRO - All six for $179
  • NAPA only has rear for $65
Anybody have any experience with any of these vendors for brake cylinders?  Andy B. seems a bit pricey.   Not sure if Dynamic Friction or Centric products are any good.  Heard some negative on other Centric products.  MoParPro is an unknown.

Thanks in advance.

Jim

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