Re: {Chrysler 300} 300 leopord

First thanks for everyone’s suggestions and input. I have had a very hectic last few weeks and just have not been able to get back on top of this. This morning I washed the car again to prepare to redo it. Up to this point my general feeling was that I should of just dried the car and prevented all this. When I washed it this afternoon I realized the spots did not occur on the trunk at all. I had not done any polishing, was nothing on the trunk because it has some issues that have to be addressed soon. Now I feel the product I used contributed largely to the problem. I feel now what I want to do is get some other product, probably McGuire’s. But there are a million options and there does not seem to be anywhere that has the professional line in stock. If anyone has any suggestions where and or what exactly to get I would appreciate it. Also a few people referred to orange, white, yellow pads. Are these 3m pads? Where are you getting those? I was hoping to buy these things somewhere today and do this but its looking like I am out of luck for the local car show tomorrow at this point.

From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Ron Waters
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2022 9:20 PM
To: 'Chrysler 300 Club International'
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} 300 leopord

Last fall, I taught myself how to professionally buff paint. The 20-year-old paint on one of my show cars was not looking as shiny as I remember it.

I started out by watching Chemical Guys videos on YouTube and on their website. Once I got a feel for how to professionally polish paint, it was off to the races. I bought a Torx 10FX D/A buffer, which they recommended for beginners. It was lightweight: 5.5 pounds.

The process is as follows: Start out by claying the entire car. This is used for 'exfoliating' the paint.Then I moved on to using Meguiars 105 on the Orange pad. Once I was happy with the results, it was on to Meguiars 205 with the White pad. Finally, I sealed the paint with Chemical Guys Jet Seal. Note: This is a simplified version of what is involved.

To practice, I found a 58 Plymouth fender in my garage that was painted black probably in the late 60s. The paint was chalky and had no shine left. I have no idea, but assume it was painted with cheap enamel. Following the process I outlined above, I buffed the fender to a beautiful shine. I just did a section so I could compare the 'before' and 'after'.

Now that I had some flight time under my belt, I went to work on my collector car. It came out gorgeous. I had no problems with rain spotting after driving through torrential rain a few weeks ago. I recommend folks learn this process. The results are far superior to what you can achieve using the commerical waxes available at most auto parts stores.

Ron

-----Original Message-----

From: "'Drew Carl' via Chrysler 300 Club International" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2022 9:57am
To: "'Bob Merritt'" <bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>, "'Chrysler list server'" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} 300 leopord

Leading up to Iola I spent 3 days and put about 12 coats of orbital buffing and then waxing on my Uncles 62. A few weeks ago I went to a local show and a rain storm came in quick for about 20 minutes and then immediately after the sun was blaring again. Thinking I was smart I took a walk and waited 45 minutes for the roads to dry back up and then went home. With all the waxing I had figured I was in great shape. When I got home I found the entire car had terrible water spots. It gave it a wash hoping they would come off but I don’t think it helped at all. Does anyone have any advice other than re polishing this out? My final coat of was was F11 and I am now concerned that was a mistake.

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