hey —-that is all wrong on the motor ,that is true only of much later permanent magnet motors .our motors with green and brown wires have two field coils wound opposite , and power returns to ground through the frame .one wire is up ; one is down. (-) wire to groundSent from my iPhone not by choiceThere are several things which you MUST keep in mind. Safety! Safety! Safety!As you take everything apart, keep in mind that the window is Damn heavy. So, use a wedge between the glass and the door frame or better yet a short piece of 2X4 inside the door from the bottom to the glass to prop it in place while you remove the regulator.When it falls it can slice or break your arm, or at least hurt you. You then can hold the glass and remove the 2X4 and tilt the glass and remove it from the top.With the regulator and glass out of the door, you can do whatever you have to do to the widow runs.The window regulator is a lethal weapon of human destruction. Perfectly safe until you try to remove the motor from the regulator. Ask me how I know...OK I have a dent in the front of my skull from where the arm hit me when I removed the motor. Fortunately, I was holding the regulator in my other hand and as it released the tension and the arm flew up to hit my forehead, it flew out of my hand, If it had been clamped in a vise, it would have been much worse. I would have been seriously injured,THIS APPLIES TO HAVING THE REGULATOR ON THE BENCH.The arm is under extreme tension to aid in raising the heavy glass window. BEFORE you start to take out the 3 bolts which hold the motor in, drill a hole thru the regulator frame and the big arm. put a bolt through these holes and secure it. This will prevent the arm from releasing the spring tension as the motor comes loose. Then remove the motor.After reinstalling the motor, you can remove the bolt.One other thing to save you much time.The motor does not use a body ground. It has 2 wires going to it, one positive and one negative. The switch switches the polarity, depending on whether the window is going up or down. To test the motor, hook jumpers, 1 pos and 1 neg to the motor and it will run. Switch the wires and it will run the other way.All this is from many windows I have removed from many cars, but am unfamiliar with you model, so your mileage may vary...Good luck and keep learning, Ray JonesOn Thu, Jan 27, 2022 at 11:48 AM Noel Hastalis <cpaviper@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:Tim,--Armrests and front door handle do need to be unscrewed - easy to do.Caution - on your ‘61 interior door and rear side panels, be extra careful with the door clips that lie under your brushed aluminum inserts. It’s easy to dent these inserts! I’ve experienced this and have had to replace my ‘60. You may consider leaving off those few clips when you reinstall your panels.NoelSent from my iPhoneOn Jan 26, 2022, at 11:29 PM, D.C. Mason <petergriffinforpresident@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:Actually a retraction from what I just wrote- for 61 you may not have to remove the armrest. I’m not familiar with that year yet. Others can chime in 🤙.V/r,dave--Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 27, 2022, at 12:17 AM, D.C. Mason <petergriffinforpresident@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:Hello Tim and all,If anyone would enjoy watching old training material for Chrysler products and hasn’t seen these yet, here are a few links. Fun and educational to watch. The examples aren’t necessarily on letter cars but can apply to many models in each year. The site has 40s, 50s, 60s and 70s bulletins. These links are just a few examples. Tim- do you have a Factory Shop Manual? There are also some insights in some of the service links dealing with doors/locks/windows explaining how to make adjustments for glass and tracks once you remove the door panel. Bob Merritt also has many videos on various repairs but I’m not aware of window work?You’ll need to remove the armrest, inside door handle, and eventually disconnect the power window switch. Your door panel will be snapped in place with clips that you can carefully pry loose all around the panel edges. Pry at the clips. You can feel where they are or sometimes see where they are once the panel starts coming loose. If the 61 is like slightly later years, the clips go straight into holes in the door metal. So pry directly away from the door metal. Prying right at the clip will help ensure the clip comes out of the hole in the door metal rather than tears off the fiberboard panel. The panel may also need to be lifted upward after popping the clips loose.https://mymopar.com/mtsc-1959-volume-12-8-new-torqueflite-transmission/RespectfullydaveSent from my iPhoneOn Jan 26, 2022, at 11:56 AM, Tim <timb@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:--Hello
2 part question for my 300G Cvt
- Can an average guy take apart and get access to the window frame/track inside the drivers door? I think I have an issue, or broken, or something wrong with the frame/track for the window. I do not have any disassembly experience like this.
- IF I can get in there and it is faulty…..will it be possible to find a replacement window track?
Thx Tim
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--Ray Jones. Y'all come on down an see us. Ya hear?--
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