Re: [Chrysler300] 64 Quarter panel project
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Re: [Chrysler300] 64 Quarter panel project





There are places where flanging makes sense and is an acceptable method. My experience with flanging body panels on a car is that it leaves a beautiful spot for corrosion to take hold and doesn't allow you to properly dolly the panel when needed. Using weld through primers can help with the corrosion aspect to a point but it's really not a good method for joining panels in my opinion. Also if I were to flange a full quarter panel, I think I would want to use a bead roller so I could better control the depth of the flange. 


Ryan Hill



From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> on behalf of 'Ron Waters' ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: January 4, 2020 7:48 AM
To: 'Charlie V' <cv300g@xxxxxxxxx>; 'Chrysler 300 List' <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; 'Dave Dumais' <dave.dumais@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] 64 Quarter panel project
 
 

Sorry, but that video is nonsense. When I butt weld, I leave a gap the size of a nickel between the two panels. Then you get the penetration so that when you grind the top welds smooth the weld underneath, as well as the metal that has now filled the gap, holds the panels together. I then light-test the welds and fill any gaps with a weld bead. I've never used a flanging tool for sheet metal sectioning and I've been doing thin gauge sheet metal sectioning on cars for over 25 years. Eastwood does sell some quality products. But they tend to be expensive. You can source them cheaper if you look.
 
Read Mike Milligan's remark in the Comments Section below the video on You Tube.
 
Ron


From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Charlie V cv300g@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2020 8:12 AM
To: Chrysler 300 List; Dave Dumais
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 64 Quarter panel project

Dave...Happy New Year   !!!

While I do work at Eastwood I am not an expert, not even a novice, at what you are doing. Perhaps you should follow Mike's advice.

Whichever way you are going to do this I would strongly suggest calling Eastwood for their advice and suggestions. They have the best customer service and tech support and I am not just saying this because I work there. When you call ask to speak to Matt Murray.
Also Eastwood has lots of videos that you can find online. Check out this video. This might be a better way than using a panel flanger . I would still get Matt's opinion  on the best procedure.

Bye and have a great day.

Charlie Valentine
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=eastwood+youtube+panel+flanging&view=detail&mid=3D85ABA0B4C30C49F2513D85ABA0B4C30C49F251&FORM=VIRE "



On Friday, January 3, 2020, 06:33:20 PM EST, Dave Dumais dave.dumais@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:


 

Hello Members,

I finally found time and tools to remove quarter panel skin from semi frame up to door jamb.

This is a big section of 300, spot weld cutters and abrasive cutting wheels are engaged.

I should have outer skin and trunk extension removed, in one piece, with more than enough steel left.

I will be using Eastwood flanger tools. My big question is.. when ready to cut into the vehicle, a long seam will exist.

Does the car section get flanged, or does the donor skin get flanged.

I intend to cut into the 300 after the Spring meet. should be interesting, having straight panels with tight fitting trim.

Any tips or experience will be accepted.

Thanks all,

Dave in Va.



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Posted by: Ryan Hill <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>


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