All this info on driveshaft upgrade is on Bob’s fantastic 300 site ,— I apologize for henscratch sketches I made while doing it, but info is there on the Denny’s Driveshafts form . Denny is terrific , have done 4-5 shafts with him , no problems, first class outfit who has helped 300 guys ( me) a lot —and he has the bolt on part you need to adapt your new shaft to the 4 brake drum bolts. ( caution , two sizes ours is the larger, —or better —to match data on form) We first saw this part via our Canadian friends, JY and Pierre , ; I had tried to make it , before I met Pierre who occasionally fixes Winnebago , he and JY gave me a damaged one. We found out Winnebago used it into 70’s to keep the mopar e brake design on 727 . A spicer part!
So pick which length fits your car , both lengths are in there , buy shaft and part from Denny . Mention club , it helps all
Of us . Each one he makes is going to be that much better . Does not need your old one ,3” end to end all new.
While on this , recently I could no longer find tiny toy rear joint used 57-59 , the one with bolt wings on bearing . “ winged joint” . Denny can provide a new pinion yoke for 8 3/ 4 about 120$ lets you use later common large Mopar U joint in back . Aka “Dodge joint” . Driveshaft side “ tangs” are the same size for both U joints , on drive shaft side of it . Small Rear joint in 57-59 gets flat spots on the cross , too weak . = Vibration .
Front joint , IMHO a sad joke . Not only the rubber boot , but divots wear into outer housing , wear pockets at same place , pin centering and the little shoes have to fit like perfect center to .0005 ( good for 30k Miles ?) or else you get chronic vibration at 60-75 mph . Forget all that hassle .1930’s design , obsolete even in 57 .
Vibration fight was why I got rid of it . Every F I had vibrated more or less. A joy now , zero vibration .
Should not be any demerits for a better thing , (but that is outa my pay league.)
John G
Sent from my iPhone not by choice
Go through all that work, and the boot will be ripped again in 1000-2000 miles, the new boots are simply not up to the standards of the originals.. I got fed up with it and had a new driveshaft made with modern joint at local shop. Fit perfect, NO shakes. NO clanking. Cost around $400. Old shaft saved for posterity, I hope they have a good time with it, I’m through, I’ll never have to deal with it again, take points off, that’s fine with me, life’s too short. Now let me tell you how I really feel…
We have a video on the drive shaft boot replacement.
Yes, drive shaft has to come out of the car
but if all you want to do is replace the boot,
the boot can be worked through the housing.
Drive Shaft Boot Kits. New trunion universal joint boot for Chrysler, Desoto, Dodge and Plymouth with 4" Detroit joint used from 1953 - 1965. Comes with correct factory clamps and instructions. $53, includes shipping to lower 48. Click here for picture. I accept PayPal and US Postal Money Orders. Mark Sherman at email: silkwormgrub@xxxxxxxxxxx or 207-809-6911.
------ Original Message ------
Sent: 4/27/2019 3:37:24 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] driveshaft boot
hi gang. looking for rubber boot for drive shaft for 1962 sport, and how does it go on. does the shaft have to come down thanks. joe luciano howard beach ny...
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