Just info ok ? Often the bearings ,flat spring steel - like bearing holder , and brush mounts go bad in the bottom of the ones with the brushes down . Due To water leaking in around window glass entering at top bearing .. Running to bottom and pooling . That plastic slinger disc , hat shaped, on output shaft has to be there and watertight to shaft . Weatherstrip adhesive or as Jamie suggests valve seals And all of it is a rusty locked up mess at bottom if water got in . Success on my part , doing it myself , about half the time . After salvaging a few , I started looking around, and later mopar replacements seem to fit . Not sure how much later but maybe 64-65 — maybe later .. With rubber coupling . With green and black wire. While unsure of years , some apparently came later with a plastic black dip to keep water out . I have taken to drilling an .060 hole under bottom of shaft when shaft is oriented down to let water out if it gets in. Can put a drop of oil in that way too . No more — or it Fouls brushes . Point is some can be rebuilt and some are really junk . Also I noticed in 60 era ones , some housings are longer . Those would have more torque , probably best used in back window . Not sure about E but generally same stuff .. Gears ( nylon ) in gearbox often break , see club site . Point is , you may do better putting in junk yard functional motors that did not have brushes down than any attempt at rebuilding trashed ones . Unfortunately can be hard to tell if rusty inside without cracking open at bottom . Not directly an answer , but info .... lots more to it also, — rust near field windings causes shorts and decay of cotton insulation . No rust , you are golden with clean up , free up brushes in slides and slight lube at bearings . Good luck .. John
Sent from my iPhone On 18 Sep 2018, at 7:29 pm, Chrysler300E@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
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